Cleaning an Anchor

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 11:38 pm

Something else that is unprecedented in sport route developement (in this country anyway)
someone taking the time and effort to apply a methodical and systems based scientific approach to the holistic developement of a climbing area.
Rick, with his engineering background has set a new standard for attention to all the details in developing a climbing area.
From conducting trials of bolt failure in the native corbin sandstone to writing a authoritative guide on sport route developement, he has left no stone un turned.
Thanks for this new paradigm, Rick.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:27 am

"To have a great adventure, and survive, requires good judgment. Good judgment comes from experience. Experience, of course, is the result of poor judgment."
--Geoff Tabin

8)

Post by **CincySam** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 3:14 pm

So here's a stupid question that I always worry about when I'm rapping at a place like Seneca (since we're on the conversation of rapping). Let's say its a medium sized tree, about 12" diameter, about 8-10 feet tall.

Let's say you're at one of those rappel stations where you've got 50 slings wrapped around the tree, and you do _everything_ right. You put a fresh new sling on the tree, a new rappel ring, and you even put in let's say 2 bomber hexes to back the whole damn thing up.

You run the rope through it all, lean back, and the tree pops. Rips right out. Snaps at the base. It was rotten as shit and there was no way you could have known, seemed stable when you yarded on it beforehand.

1. Is there any possibilty, based on the weight of the tree, strength of the pro, etc. that the two absolutely bomber hexes would hold the tree and you dangling beneath it when it pops?

2. Has anyone ever heard of this happening before?

3. How the hell would you escape a situation like this?

Just one of my paranoid fears maybe...dunno.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:38 pm

Seems to me that if the "bomber" hexes hold your fall during the initial tree anchor failure then you will probably be fine and can continue your rappel. If those hexes fail then you will most likely be saying hello to the ground as you rapidly rush downward to meet it.

Post by **ynot** » Fri Jan 14, 2005 11:48 pm

Just poking holes in your scenario but you should be able to judge if a tree is rotten or not,before you decide to rap from it.Look for greenery,knock on it.If its hollow sounding its rotten.Look at the branches.Are they dead looking?They are spread out the same distance as the root system.Give it a solid tug.Did it move?Rap from the 2 hexes and forget the tree.You should know this stuff before you ever set up a rappell.

Post by **Canuck** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:26 pm

also, give the tree a good sideways pull at some height up from the base (chest or shoulder height). and then put the slings for your anchor near the base of the tree. you'll be applying a lot more torque with a solid tug 4 feet up from the base (the fulcrum) of the tree (the lever) than with a sling with your weight on it 6 or so inches from the base. so if the tree holds with a big pull then it should hold when you rap.