ro 12a

Innocent subjects that took a turn for the worst.
rockstar
Posts: 340
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 7:37 pm

ro 12a

Post by rockstar »

so what's with ro being a 12 now? i thought it was only like 11c or something? and then only if you're mentally retarded and have a broken wrist.

argue sporties, argue!
fuck the haters
J-Rock
Posts: 1936
Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2004 9:30 pm

Post by J-Rock »

Who cares? Just climb it.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."

--A Navaho elder
Yasmeen
Posts: 4663
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

J-Rock wrote:Who cares? Just climb it.
I care. I'm hot to redpoint a 12, and I'm planning on hauling my butt up that route this season and if it's a 12, that's just that much better.

ZSpider
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

If your ego needs it to be 5.12, then you should call it 5.12. Otherwise, it is just .11d. Check out porter and snyders guide for some more resonable ratings of other classics.

Personally, I would care more about being able to climb a *real* 5.12(13, etc) then a soft one.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

Wes wrote:
Personally, I would care more about being able to climb a *real* 5.12(13, etc) then a soft one.

Wes
Haha! I'm a "soft" sorta guy anyway, so I'll leave the "real" climbs for the real men.

I also plan on doing Stay the Hand, around the corner. I've been told by two people who have pulled both that Stay the Hand is easier than Ro.

ZSpider
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

It just comes down to if you want to climb 5.12 or a 5.12. If you just want the number, there are easier routes out there then Stay or Ro that have that number.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

Wes wrote:It just comes down to if you want to climb 5.12 or a 5.12. If you just want the number, there are easier routes out there then Stay or Ro that have that number.

Wes
I would be interested in hearing what those are. I picked Ro as a project for several reasons. The first reason is that it is entry level 12. The second reason is that it plays to my strong point, which is straightforward apehanging on overhanging rock. Another reason is location. It's something that I am going to have to work, so easy access is a big plus, and weather is less a factor, too.

I'm not a very confident climber. Psychologically I doubt my ability to do the climbs, and the doubt works against me on the rock. If I can find something that has a big grade, and I can work it and get it done, then it gives me confidence and determination on the easier ones. After hauling my butt up Fuzzy Undercling I got a lot more agressive about filling in the 10s. If I can waddle my ass up even the lamest 12, then I think it will give me a psychological advantage when filling in the 11s. And that is why I want to climb "a" 12.

ZSpider
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

I, personally, feel these routes are soft for 12a. Your milage may vary...

Check your grip
Buddha hole (my first 12a, but I don't think it is nearly as hard as stay, and thus, should be .11d)
Hardcore Jollies

And, from what I have heard, Wild, yet tasty could be added to the list.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Zspider wrote:
I also plan on doing Stay the Hand, around the corner. I've been told by two people who have pulled both that Stay the Hand is easier than Ro.
Yup, I agree, but that all depends on whether you can muscle that move at the beginning.
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