Some of you who hike into Muir Valley from the main parking lot have noticed a pair of anchor chains on the first wall of rock you encounter (on the right side) along the trail. On first appearance, this "route" might seem to be an April Fool prank, inasmuch as the anchor is about 8 feet off the ground.
Actually, we set this anchor as a practice route where climbers inexperienced in outdoor climbing can be taught how to safely clean an anchor and rap off. The person instructing can stand to the side with a clear view of the situation.
I think we've all seen newbies nervously cleaning their first anchors with instruction being yelled up 60 feet to them by belayers squinting to see what the climber was actually doing. This low anchor system should provide a much safer and less intimidating way to learn proper techniques.
Also, to preserve the life of the hardware on climbs in the Valley, we would like to ask you to do two things: First, toprope through your draws, rather than use anchor rings. And second, when cleaning, rap off rather than lower through the rings.
When you do rap off, it's a darn good idea to keep the belayer's end of the rope knotted and also tie a knot at the free end of the rope. To be really safe you can also back up your rap with a simple autoblock on a harness leg loop. If you don't want to take these safety steps, at the very least, have your belayer monitor your rap ride rather than wandering away after taking you off.
Mother Hen
Cleaning an Anchor
Cleaning an Anchor
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
-
longlegsrule
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:21 pm
Hey Rick this is a really great idea! I have one comment, I agree that rapping off anchors helps reduce the impact but in many situations it isn't very practical or easy to do. Really over hanging routes can be difficult if not impossible to rap clean and most experinced sport climbers out there are just not going to rap clean. I never rap clean but since you asked I will make it a habit when I climb at Muir. Do you think there is another solution/practice that could help reduce anchor wear and tear?
Thanks again for all that you and Liz contribute to the Red River Gorge climbing community!
Thanks again for all that you and Liz contribute to the Red River Gorge climbing community!
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
There are exceptions to these guidelines. Safety always prevails. If it is awkward to rap, then by all means, lower.rhunt wrote:Hey Rick this is a really great idea! I have one comment, I agree that rapping off anchors helps reduce the impact but in many situations it isn't very practical or easy to do. Really over hanging routes can be difficult if not impossible to rap clean and most experinced sport climbers out there are just not going to rap clean. I never rap clean but since you asked I will make it a habit when I climb at Muir. Do you think there is another solution/practice that could help reduce anchor wear and tear?
Thanks again for all that you and Liz contribute to the Red River Gorge climbing community!
Most of the anchors installed in Muir Valley terminate in quicklinks, which can be easily replaced just as locking biners can. Their threads are locked with Locktite 222 compound. When they show wear, they must be heated with a small torch to break down the Locktite and allow them to be unscrewed.
In those cases where no quicklinks are present, the locking biners would work well. Just be sure to use Locktite, or they will probably be declared booty.
Thanks!
Rick
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau