smart gym climbing

Quit whining. Drink bourbon. Climb more.
Meadows
Posts: 5395
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 4:03 pm

Post by Meadows »

Stretch!

Realize that it will take time for you to get acquainted with gym-style climbing. I get disoriented each time I go to a new gym because the style of setting routes varies.

When bouldering, place a pad over the split where other pads come together. Many people have fallen, landed in the split and went home with a broken/badly sprained ankle.

Don't follow Ho's advice, it will zap your energy.
longlegsrule
Posts: 1799
Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:21 pm

Post by longlegsrule »

Ho's advice is great....it helps with getting frustration out before hand so you can concentrate on climbing.
From Kentucky ;o)
Guest

Post by Guest »

yeah I kinda like Ho's advice, too. :twisted:

Thanks, everyone. I went last night and it seems the only mistake I made was getting on stuff that was hard (for me). I actually had fun and got a good work out. My goal is to work my weaknesseses and increase my endurance on overhangs. I know I'll get used to the tape deal... but I won't be doing any of that silly bouldering crap.
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

If you are training for routes hopefully you have access to some type of systems wall or a slightly overhanging wall that you can hang out on for longish burns.
Hopefully you have some gym managers who understand the importance of traverses and circuit routes for endurance training and encourage this type of route setting. (Big hint here for RQclimber & Kato. I'm willing to set some training routes anytime you want.)
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Zspider
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 3:02 pm

Post by Zspider »

Ignore the tape the first time up and use any hold that's available. If you can make it to the top using all the holds, then start limiting yourself to a particular taped route. Don't dyno. Be aware that the more time you spend on crimpers, the closer you get to finger problems. If you want to gain strength, go for the open-handed slopers on overhanging walls. If you experience pain after a workout, take enteric (coated) aspirins and soak hurting hands in cold water. Drink beer. Pain or no pain.

ZSpider
young'n climber
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 8:31 pm

Post by young'n climber »

Climb 13s and v10s
Alan Evil is a whiney fucking bitch.
_____

The quest for certainty blocks the search for meaning. Uncertainty is the very condition to impel man to unfold his powers.
Rain Man
Posts: 450
Joined: Mon Dec 16, 2002 2:45 pm

Post by Rain Man »

Stay away from mono and two-finger pocket holds that only fit a single pad (that's how I strained a tendon in my right hand earlier this spring, when I started training in the gym).
"I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself."
D. H. Lawrence
diggum
Posts: 1552
Joined: Sun Oct 03, 2004 3:13 pm

Post by diggum »

Zspider wrote:If you experience pain after a workout, take enteric (coated) aspirins and soak hurting hands in cold water. Drink beer. Pain or no pain.
I was looking around trying to find a thread about pain in finger joints...
Does this hold true for that?

I overdid it at the gym the last few days & my joints are swollen & aching. I took ibuprofen this morning & it didn't seem to help at all.
I'm at work so no beer... :(
Holding onto anger is like grasping a hot coal with the intent of throwing it at someone else; you are the one who gets burned. - Buddha
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ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

Aleve was working for me, but alas.....I have been just living with the swelling and pain.It becomes part of you after a few years. If it's the joint and not the tendons,then Chondroitin Gloucosamine work.It takes a few days to kick in.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Roentgen Ray
Posts: 227
Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 5:28 pm

Post by Roentgen Ray »

If you're having that much swelling and pain, you may be overdoing it. Try less closed fisted crimping and add more slopers to the routine.

Happy New Year!


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