Jailhouse re-surge

Post by **Huggybone** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 6:23 pm

I know that more climbingers are heading to the RRG campground on star gap road. I also know that, if you follow it to the end, you can hike up to jailhouse in about 15 minutes. I also know mny undone routes await anyone who can climb 5.10.

Has anyone gone back there recently? Put up any new routes?
I havn't been there for years and was wondering if people are hitting it up again due to the proximity to the campground.

Post by **Danny** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 7:10 pm

What? A couple weeks ago I bushwacked for like 100 miles trying to get there. I liked the 5.10b with the 5.13 OW start.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 7:12 pm

Which route is that, Danny? Are you making up your own routes and naming them after others' again, a la Boiler Room?

Post by **Danny** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 7:52 pm

Hard labor. http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=805 Actually I just did it the wrong way

I was campusing off of these loose plates in the back of the offwidth and wedging my shoulder and other body parts and as best I could to squirm my way up. I think it was the hardest I ever strained.

Post by **Huggybone** » Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:07 am

Damn. Ouch. Alexis tried to fo it that way. I just pimped a crimp and dynoyed to the jam.

If you go from star gap arch road, the approach is VERY short.

Post by **Huggybone** » Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:08 am

THe bad english algorhythm is here for friday!

Post by **coop** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 6:27 pm

How do I get to Star Gap road and then to Jailhouse rock in 15 minutes? I followed the old approach for more than an hour to get there last time. And does anyone know how to get to Star Gap Arch Area? I tried following the directions in the book and couldn't find the old 4-wheel drive road it was talking about.

Post by **coop** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 6:32 pm

I looked at the directions in the online guide a minute ago and am now more confused. Will that old dirt road that is now blocked off at the very end of Tunnel Ridge road get you to Star Gap Arch, or to the Double Arch?

Post by **Huggybone** » Fri Dec 10, 2004 8:53 pm

Go out past the RRG campground on star gap arch road. Dive until about 400 feet before the end of the road, hike uphill. Very steep. No trail. But short.
Do not take tunnel ridge road.
PM yasmeen, she can forward my more detailed description (sorry, short on time).

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Sat Dec 11, 2004 12:07 am

The road out to Star gap is a little hike out past the end (new end) of Tunnel Ridge Road. But don't expect to be able to get to the climbing area that way. It was hard a few years ago to find a decent way in and out and now it is almost impossible except for the very determined. Forest fires, blow downs and pine beetle damage have really destroyed the ridge out to those pinnacles. I wouldn't even bother going out there if I were you and had never been before. You'll NEVER find the climbing and you'll have wasted a lot of time trying to find mediocre climbing.

Having said that, the epic ascent and descent of First Pinnacle by myself and my cousin a few years ago is one of my most favorite climbing experiences.

Epic.