My shoulders are done

Post by **hoss** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 3:35 am

I've obviously been spending too much time pebble wrastlin (triple crown). I've developed some severe shoulder pain. It's more acute in my left shoulder. It comes and goes, and is only a problem when I attempt certain moves (i.e. gastone or dealing with slopey top outs). I still can't raise my left arm straight in the air. This has been going on for about a month. Anyone else experienced this, and what should I do to help alleviate the pain?

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 3:52 am

Rest. Bourbon. Rest.

Post by **Scaife** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:15 am

Shoulder pain is really tricky. You have to figure out what kind of pain it is. Some things can be fixed with rest, some with proper exercises, and some only with surgery. A doctor is really the best person to ask.

Check out http://www.climbinginjuries.com/

It gave me good advice on my shoulder injury. It turns out mine was caused by a muscle imbalance in the shoulder. To many pull-ups and not enough arm lifts.

As soon as I started doing the exercises, the pain went away. Now I make them part of my preclimbing warm-up routine. Except exercise 3. That's the muscle group that's already too strong!

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:19 pm

I've experienced exactly that. Turned out to be a separation of the AC joint along with torn ligaments. They wanted to do surgery but I just stopped going hard right gastons and it has been fine for 6 years.

Listen to Marathonmedic though. Rest it. Bourbon up. Then rest some more.
I used a bike tire intertube on a door handle to do light exercises with it.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 2:30 pm

Don't let him fool you. He used the innertube on the door handle because he was always too drunk too get off the couch when people came over.

Post by **longlegsrule** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:05 pm

I'm taking a couple of weeks off (we'll see if this actually happens) bc of the same thing...but I've been to the doc so I know what's wrong with mine...and about the only thing to fix...unless you've done some super serious damage...is to exercise...to strengthen your opposing muscles

I think it's worse if you completely stop climbing for an extended amount of time...bc you will more often than not reinjure when you start up again

and in case it's a muscle...up your protein consumption

we should consume at least half our body weight in grams of protein...athletes even more to rebuild muscles...

and if you are going to continue to climb hard DO NOT take anti-inflammatories before you climb...only after bc it will mask additional injuries and pain.

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:30 pm

Good point, LLR, on the NSAIDs.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:42 pm

longlegsrule wrote:we should consume at least half our body weight in grams of protein...athletes even more to rebuild muscles...

That's a lot of protein! Where'd you read that? That much protein is bound to block calcium absorption...

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:46 pm

I've read something similar or was told I need an ungodly high amount of protein when training for a 1/2 marathon.

Check this out:

http://vanderbiltowc.wellsource.com/dh/ ... sp?ID=1288

It will calculate your needs for you.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Dec 09, 2004 5:51 pm

As for climbing gently or not climbing at all, I would say don't do ANY climbing that hurts it. Any pain you feel while you climb is putting strain on a weak part of your body and will only serve to reinjure it. If you want to do some easy stuff, that's fine, but nothing that hurts. Also, when you start climbing after any extended rest, make sure you're starting easy. I'm not talking about just having a good warmup, but spend a week or two climbing stuff that is well below (~1-2 numbers below) your limit and gradually work your way back up over a couple of weeks to give that newly healed section time to strengthen to match your other muscles, otherwise the weakest part (the injury) will tear first. ACCEPT THE FACT THAT YOU'RE NOT GOING TO BE CLIMBING AT YOUR LIMIT FOR AT LEAST 2 MONTHS! (That includes you, SCIN.)

Other points:
Muscle tears heal slowly and tendons/ligaments heal VERY slowly. I think a muscle needs about 6-8 to heal and I know ligaments need at least 3 months. The sports medicine people can correct this if I'm wrong. (If anybody cares, tendons and ligaments don't have any blood supply directly to them so they get nutrients by diffusing over a long distance.)

The bit about athletes needing increased protein is still highly debated, but it certainly can't hurt to up your intake when you're trying to heal.

As for NSAIDs, I agree with not taking them before exercising to block pain. Also realize that the dosage needed to get the anti-inflammatory effect instead of just the painkilling effect is rather high. You need to be taking pretty much the maximum dose on the bottle to get the anti-inflammatory effects. (And if you have liver or kidney disease, consult a physician first.)

Rest is the first and last key. That and bourbon, but lift with your good arm or use a straw.