Here Comes Batman

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Here Comes Batman

Post by haas »

does anyone know what the anchors are like for this climb out at Staircase Wall?
loren
Posts: 331
Joined: Thu Jan 30, 2003 6:28 pm

Post by loren »

I looked at it earlier this summer and I believe it tops out and you rap from a tree.
Crankmas
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Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

the first ascent has been cloaked in mystery by the reticent first ascentist
captain static
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Staircase Wall is immediately adjacent to Indian Staircase (to the left if you are at the bottom of the Indian Staircase looking up). It is correct that you top out, but no need to rap as you can descend via Indian Staircase. The only mystery about the route is why has it never been repeated? If you try it the only thing I ask is that you take some pictures. And don't go up there "club clothed". I would strongly suggest long pants, long sleeves, and if your shoes are low top to tape your ankles. Maybee if someone does a second ascent, Ray will put it in the guide? Yas, this would be a great OW project for you!
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Legion
Posts: 539
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:15 am

Post by Legion »

I don't see how anything big enough to put both hands in could possibly be harder than 5.9
captain static
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Legion wrote:I don't see how anything big enough to put both hands in could possibly be harder than 5.9
Don't be dissin' me or my man OW :evil:
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Yasmeen
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Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 10:42 am

Post by Yasmeen »

Legion... you can fit both hands in Wide Pride... stacked even... and I'm pretty sure it's harder than 5.9. Where's the logic behind your statement?
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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haas
Posts: 694
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 pm

Post by haas »

Really? No one's done a 2nd ascent of this thing? It's not rated too hard, is it just so obscure or is the OW super nasty? Perhaps both? How'd it look to you Loren?
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

Legion wrote:I don't see how anything big enough to put both hands in could possibly be harder than 5.9
Thats the most ass-anine statement I've ever heard.

This from a guy who whined and moaned cuz he couldn't get up a 10b at Pistol.

Oh well, consider the source.....


Regardless....I got some 5.9's for ya.....
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Post by 512OW »

And actually, you can't fit both hands into it, but thanks for making ridiculous assumptions.

Its a super-flaring, super shallow acute dihedral at the top. When I say super shallow, I mean inches. That creates some really cool and crazy moves.

I onsighted it to the top....and with my hand on top, inches from a jug, with so much sand in my eyes I couldn't see.....I took the big ride.

There was a picture of me near the top in Rock and Ice a few years back, and I have several other shots of it.....


Captain Static, if it'd make you happy, we'll go out there one day when it starts to warm back up, and you can take pics while I send it.....
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
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