climbing goals '05

Post by **andy_lemon** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 9:51 pm

p.s. You guys wish V1 ='ed 11a.

V1 = 10b to 10d-ish.

V2= 11a

Post by **Wes** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 9:55 pm

As I said, it is super hard / imposable to compare route and V grades. They just don't match up very well. You can, however, give a small chunk of a route a V grade. Like the 10 foot crux section of "someroute" which is rated 5.xxy is about V(somenumber). Other then that, it is best to not try and compare.

Wes

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:01 pm

Meadows wrote:Sometimes there is just a chemistry between the belayer and a climber that enables the climber to relax and just climb.

So true, Meadows. My best onsights/sends have been when I trust the person on the other end of the rope so much that I place all responsibility in their hands and just climb. Not to say that I'm not still super careful placing gear and paying attention to where my feet are in relation to the rope, etc., but I don't sit there and worry about "Will they catch me if I fall here? What about here?"-- I trust that they'll keep me off the ground and away from any ledges, and just go for it. It's really a liberating thing to find that kind of chemistry.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:02 pm

This may be a dumb question, but can I assume that I can boulder at a certain level based on how I climb?

Post by **Wes** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:03 pm

marathonmedic wrote:This may be a dumb question, but can I assume that I can boulder at a certain level based on how I climb?

Nope. Different things altogether.

Wes

Post by **marathonmedic** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:04 pm

Figures. So the only way to know how I'll boulder is to boulder. It just seems like there should be some way to compare the two.

Post by **Meadows** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:29 pm

Yasmeen, Some things just come by experience with climbing with others. Unless they're the size of Squeeze, some have to learn how to give a soft catch. There is more to it than that. There are other idiosyncrasies that the right partners pay attention to.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:46 pm

My best climbing is when I have an inexperienced belayer. Then I don't allow myself to fall...

If you can climb at a 5.13 level, then you can probably boulder V8.

If you can climb at a 5.12 level, then you can definitely boulder V4 and under.

If you are solid at the 5.11 level then you can probably boulder V3 and under.

If you are solid at the 5.10 level then you can probably boulder V2 and under.

If you are only solid at a level of 5.9 then you probably can't boulder very well... etc. etc.

Post by **dipsi** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:07 pm

Goals for '05:

Climb more 10s without hanging (or hangover), lead more without screwing my beaner shut, and continue climbing with the greatest friends in the world! Oh! Have fun, definitely, have fun!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Dec 07, 2004 11:19 pm

Meadows wrote:There are other idiosyncrasies that the right partners pay attention to.

Yep. Agreed.