glueing and drilling holds what is your opinion

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:12 pm

we're being far too civil for the flame board. Someone spank me!

Post by **Wes** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:15 pm

So, altering the rock is OK, if you call it cleaning, but wrong if you call it chipping, while gluing (which you maintain the rock) is also wrong? Say you have a route that would be a nice route, excpet it has a loose section or two of rock. You would just have to clean a few flakes etc. to make it a three start classic. Now think if you have a route that would be a three star clasic except it has a totally blank section. You would just need to chip a couple hold to make it go. Is there a real difference, or just a perseived difference?

So, a bolt ladder is better then a couple chipped hook placements? I mention the pin scar thing, because while people bag on chipped routes, they sing the praises of those who free pin scared/chipped routes.

Wes

Post by **Wes** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:16 pm

Damn, my spelling and grammer have gone downhill quickly....

Wes

Post by **chester** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:21 pm

i say keep the glue at home and anything you can't kick loose or "chip" with
your climbing shoe is downright disgraceful...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:23 pm

There you go, Chester! I need to learn to be more to the point like you, dammit.

Wes, I think there is a difference.
Cleaning: in the process of climbing a route, shit falls off
Gluing: artificially attaching the shit that would naturally fall off
Chipping: artificially creating holds where holds do not exist

See, if we're going to climb the rock, shit is going to fall off. It will eventually fall off over time whether we climb it or not, though it may be a very long period of time if we didn't climb it. Anyway, a HUGE part of the attraction of climbing has always been enjoying what mother nature has to offer. Altering it to our liking (chipping and gluing) is repulsive (to me).

The bolt ladder versus chipping hook placements may be a gray area, but as I said, I'm not familiar with aid ethics. It just sounds wrong to chip, and bolts are acceptable these days. Even to me, even though up to and until a year ago I was repulsed by the sight of bolts.

Post by **merrick** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:31 pm

lynne,

there are two types of gluing

one is adding holds to a wall and the other is how you defined it.

Gluing: artificially attaching the shit that would naturally fall off

i don't think it is black and white at all. i think it is situational. you are not altering the rock when you are keeping holds from breaking and you are making it safer. you as the climber would never know whether a hold has been glued. and i sort of put it in the same catagory as trundlling.

i am prety sure you have climbed on chipped routes and enjoyed them not realizing that they were chipped.

anyway it is good to be back in cyberspace and bsing with you all.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:37 pm

It's good to have you back, Merrick.

But you sorry bastard (it's the flame board afterall), whether or not I have enjoyed chipped routes doesn't make chipping right. Once it's done, it's done and it's too late to change it. It shouldn't be done in the first place is my point.

I am actually repulsed to think that I have probably climbed chipped routes..

I object just as strongly to gluing, but I realize not everyone feels the same way about it (so I'll just have to kick your ass. After my Love Dr. call though). Check out the video in question that prompted this discussion. Lame. They may have done a nice job, but it was unneccessary. Ass faces.

Post by **merrick** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:40 pm

i thought kicking my ass was part of your love DR. call...maybe i am confusing patients.

anyway I guess I am a lame wade. oh wait, I am a lame wade.

ha ha

i am a lame wade.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:42 pm

Damn you beat me to it, Lame Wade. Congratulations! I have tears welling up in my eyes.

I think that was Gretchen's Love DR call, but maybe we could get a group rate for ass kicking?

Post by **Wes** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 8:44 pm

I guess to me: Chiiping = cleaning = glueing = bolting, because they all alter the rock. I guess people just want to feel good about themselves, by thinking "I am a pure climber" kind of thoughts. But the reality is the rock is changed, one way or another. And that is no big deal to the rock.