Horatio Felacio wrote:.12- isn't that hard for a pinkpoint to be necessary. haven't you ever been climbing with someone and they get the lead of a "moderate" crack. they lower off and instead of wasting time pulling gear for your "clean" ascent, you just tell them to leave it in place, so you can do it and move on to something else? i've done that. i guess you and wes can tell me the ol' crap about "pre-placed has no place", but i would bet anything i could've done it because it wasn't that hard to begin with. i don't see the pre-placed thing to be much of an issue unless part of the difficulty of the route is placing the gear.
from the looks of human chew toy, i would guess that is why they did it. probably just all those dudes taking turns on it one day and finally one of them did it. i just don't remember the chew toy looking that hard to protect.
Thats my point.....12- isn't that hard that a pinkpoint is "necessary". So why be lazy and not redpoint it? Lots of 5.12 roof cracks have only been done by pinkpointing.
Thats whats bugging me. It just seems that ethics go completely out the window and people just "forget" to mention the style in which it was climbed.
I dont' have a problem with the way Chew Toy was done....in fact I applaud it. Jeff, when reporting it, called the FA a pinkpoint. I think that is classy.
On another note, I don't understand stick clipping. People will go do boulder problems, and then stick clip the first bolt of everything....I don't get it.