low budget climbing diet

Post by **rockstar** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:01 pm

actually has he done 14a on gear? the 14a pitch on dihedral wall is sport. there is only one 14 crack i know of, magic line in yosemite. ron kauk did it and there have been no repeats. plus that one roof crack in italy but he said in america it would be a 13. met him in the valley. nice guy.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:06 pm

What's the roof crack in Italy called?

Post by **rockstar** » Tue Nov 30, 2004 8:12 pm

no idea. i think it is in the valle di mileo or something. called italy's yosemite or something. check climbing.com i think they had a story on it awhile back.

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:34 am

andy_lemon wrote:
rhunt wrote:
512OW wrote:Tommy Caldwell eats Big Macs. I eat chili dogs and vienna sausages.

Its all in your head. Fuck a diet.
Good point. I guess if you climb 14a on gear and 14d on bolts you can probably get away with eating Big Macs..

Actually I think it is "14a on gear and 15a on bolts". Didn't he put up a sick line in Colorado? Anyhow... what's a diet?

Plus....in an old Climbing Magazine article, Tommy CREDITS Big Macs for his power....saying that he'd be afraid to stop eating McDonalds because he'd lose his power.

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:35 am

I read about that crack......he gave it 14 and said that in Europe it would be a 14d, because their cracks are way overgraded.

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 5:38 am

There are a few 14 cracks. All confirmed have been done with preplaced gear. Magic Line wasn't the first....Boogieman was. Yaniro....84 or something. Still Unrepeated. Zebree in Canada is another. There are a few more....a roof in Split Rocks....all thin, preprotected cracks, except Zebree, which according to the video of it, may be the coolest crack climb on the planet....

NOW....Lost Horizons, sent by Rob Candelaria was called 14a, and he placed on lead. There is doubt about whether or not he really did it.

Puss Pa Morfar or something like that (translates to Kiss on Grandpa, I think...) was called 14a. There is a video at www.highsport.se/filmer. Watch the way that guy places gear...its all already racked in order and clipped into the rope...he just pulls it and plugs it....hell yeah...

No Way Jose, by Jose Pereyra is 13d, but unrepeated and speculation calls it 14a.

Dihedron by Randy Leavitt has been upgraded by Randy to 14a. It has some fixed copperheads.

Scott Burke and Yuji Hirayama suggested 14 for the Great Roof on the Nose.....Scott suggested 14b for the Changing Corners pitch...

There are several others, but I'm sick of typing...

Post by **512OW** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 8:04 am

Oh yeah...and Dean Potters new route, Concepcion, which he said is way harder than any other 13 in the desert....which had been feeling "easy". It has two back to back V10 cruxes, is 235 feet long with 60 feet of rattly, overhanging off fingers (good jesus...), and he ran it out 80 feet to the anchors.

5.14?? Tell ya after I go do it....

Post by **marathonmedic** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 12:58 pm

What are you waiting for? Get on it, man! That crack ain't gonna climb itself! I expect a report back here in one week.

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 3:07 pm

512OW wrote:Oh yeah...and Dean Potters new route, Concepcion, which he said is way harder than any other 13 in the desert....which had been feeling "easy". It has two back to back V10 cruxes, is 235 feet long with 60 feet of rattly, overhanging off fingers (good jesus...), and he ran it out 80 feet to the anchors.

5.14?? Tell ya after I go do it....

Isn't that the one that the video floating around with him taking those huge whippers onto a .2 Cam?

Post by **rockstar** » Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:57 pm

no he said 14a in europe. 13 something in america.