glueing and drilling holds what is your opinion

Post by cc » Thu Jan 09, 2003 9:10 pm

did anyone catch that article on climbxmedia. i am not sure how i feel about glueing hold to save problems, but drilling hold on routes is hilarous to me i can't believe anyone would do that. i was just wonder what some other climbers opinions are.

:?:cc

Post by **batguano** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 3:31 am

I don't get it. It seems like asking: "Bishops are molesting children, what's your opinion?"

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 12:42 pm

Unfortunately not all climbers appear to feel that way, or it wouldn't even be an issue. I personally think it sucks. Either way it would make for an interesting answer to "Dude, how'd you finally pull that crux!?"

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 12:58 pm

It seems "comfortizing"/drilling is a bit of a heated topic. In my opinion, if you can't do the problem or route the way God intended, you train and work until you can or you just go home and leave it alone.

I am not sure how I feel about glueing holds to save a problem either. Some people say "holds break, that's life", others say "good line, needs to be maintained". I guess I am on the fence about that one.

Mj

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 2:13 pm

I think gluing is just as deplorable as chipping. They are both artificial manipulation of routes. I think it's just wrong. If people want to set routes, they should climb in a gym.

Post by **dingo** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 4:26 pm

I agree. You want to make a route, go to the gym. If a hold breaks, oh well, it just makes it harder. Makes it a new route really. That's how REAL ROCK works. If a pocket is too sharp for you, then don't hang around! Keep moving!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 4:53 pm

Yeah, I'm with Lynne and dingo on the gluing thing. It's not like you're *entitled* to climb a certain route as a 10a (or whatever the rating may be). If a broken hold makes in a 10d, deal with it, and like dingo said, be happy that you have a new route to work!

Post by **john e aragon** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 5:52 pm

has either of you ever pulled on a hold that had been glued on, or drilled? if not how can you comment on that stiuation? personally i have, on private property, done by the climber who owned the land! in that situation i must say, it insured that climbing would be a part of his land for a long time. in other words it helped (was a good thing) the area. however, i am sure that other situation would not produce the same affect.

Lame Wade · Post by **Lame Wade** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 6:25 pm

I say move this to the flame board so we can really have some fun with this!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Jan 10, 2003 6:31 pm

I haven't, the reason I wasn't agreeing with gluing holds back on was that it's not something that could naturally occur. Though you could also argue that climbing is something that would not naturally happen to the rock either. *shrug*