Boogered Schmoogered

Post by **512OW** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 12:39 am

So, after doing this route again recently, I began to wonder how the hell it was ever rated 5.12 to begin with. MAYBE 11c if it were wet and you were climbing it in the dark. POSSIBLY 11b if you were blind with one hand, but most likely, 11a/b at best.

Its a great route, cool exposure, with PERFECT handjams that my grandma couldn't fall out of, and a one move semi powerful layback lip turn that required very little thinking and no jamming.

Its not that its been cleaned, cuz well, who woulda cleaned it??? And its been dirty every time I've been on it.

I think its a case of overinflated ego-grading.

Great route though. Those wanting an easy roof crack should go do it.

Post by **512OW** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 1:09 am

And those who believe it is 5.12 should go do The Specimen.

Post by **Meadows** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 3:45 am

I thought the ego came with downgrading (said in some other thread)?

Post by **512OW** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 4:09 am

Nah. Its pretty ego driven to grade something 5.12, especially considering it would have been the Reds first 5.12 crack, when it clearly isn't even close.

I don't downgrade for ego, I vocalize downgradings because alot of people would never go try it if they thought it was borderline 5.12. Its more borderline 5.11, and there are tons of people who will try that.

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 4:13 am

On the other hand, why grade a route 5.10 if it is more like 5.11?

Post by **andy_lemon** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 5:01 am

That thing is definately 5.10e

Post by **512OW** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 5:22 am

J-Rock wrote:On the other hand, why grade a route 5.10 if it is more like 5.11?

HUH????

I don't get it. If you're referring to The Specimen, its 5.10c. Period. It simply requires a technique that fell by the wayside years ago. Not having it is no excuse to raise the grade.

The climbs don't get harder, the people get softer.

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 12:45 pm

Damn, now I want to climb it to find out for myself!

Post by **dhoyne** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 1:16 pm

It's one of those slash grades: 10a/13c.

Post by **ynot** » Wed Nov 24, 2004 2:05 pm

It's not so easy to find. Look for Poptart and then go right.Boogered is the one with the dihedral above.Poptart is fun but watch out for the rope drag and it's usually wet.