Ro Shampo actual rating

[Johnny]

Well, let's see some more data...

[bberlier]

Johnny, you forgot to put in the poll that it felt like 11a if you use all the heel hooks.

[Johnny]

What's a heel hook? Is that like aid climbing?

[SikMonkey]

Alright, now here is another Monkeywrench for the Great RedRiver Rating Debate: Check Your Grip is also considered to be a "consensus" 11d but is rated 12a. I would consider Spirit Fingers, an 11c on the same wall, to be actually a tad harder than Check Your Grip. Has anyone been on both of these routes and what is your opinion? I onsighted CYG but Spirit Fingers took a couple of tries (4, I think). Did CYG just play into my strengths or are there forces at work here that none of us can truly comprehend?

Mj

[Johnny]

I onsighted Spirit Fingers and took about 6 tries to redpoint CYG.

[SikMonkey]

I think my footwork in the middle section was what killed me on Spirit Fingers. Also, I worked on my endurance quite a bit in the two months between my rp on Spirit Fingers and my os of CYG.

What part of CYG stymied you? Was it an endurance issue or a specific move?

Mj

[SCIN]

I onsited both of them but compared to Hatuna Makata they both felt like 5.10.

[SikMonkey]

Damn, is Hakuna Matata that hard? I haven't been on it yet, but Terry said it would go 12b. I would like to try it as it looks like a stellar line.

Mj

[SCIN]

It's probably the fear factor that makes it feel so hard.

[Johnny]

CYG had mostly endurance problems for me, but I also had to learn to relax on that longish crux section and not overgrip. Finding a good foothold helped too.