ethics question

Post by **skeeterth0mps0n** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:14 am

I have a climbing ethics question that I was wondering how people would respond to.
Lets say that you were out climbing a trad line and while you were on it you saw this shallow crack to the left. It looks like climbable variation of what you are on and you could get a first assent if you tried. But the problem is that there is moss and this funky mold growing on the crack.
Do you top rope the climb and clean off the growth with a soft brush or do you let the growth go with the possibility of the variation.
Just wondering what the masses would say.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:27 am

will it really be a good route, or just another overlooked pile that someone did sometime?

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:31 am

Perhaps the first ascentionist has already top-roped or led it (or maybe not). I know that we climb several variations of a route before we decide where to place the bolts. As for trad routes, we usually try some of the variations of them too. I'd recommend contacting the first ascentionists and asking for their take on the matter. If it's a fun looking climb and it hasn't already been done then go for it. If not, go for it anyway... but it may or may not be an FA. Just have fun and climb whatever looks good at the time.

Post by **the lurkist** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:35 am

dirty weed choked cracks are like that for a reason. They are usually getting drained into from above. Go ahead and clean it out. It will just get choked again.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 3:39 am

Climb it first with all of the moss, dirt, grime, mold, and weeds. Then decide if it is worthy enough to clean. Lurkist is probably right though. It will soon be dirty again... But then again, that's part of the adventure of trad climbing at the Red. If you can climb here it probably wouldn't be too hard to journey to the Amazon or Africa to climb in a real jungle.

Post by **andy_lemon** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:23 am

FA'ers need to clean routes... some people clean off just the holds they will need to use and let the green mank continue to grow in other spots on the route. I hear this is what you would call, ethical! But if your like the rednecks we are in Western Kentucky, you'll scrub the whole damn thing. Takes a bit of time...

Post by **Steve** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:31 am

Plenty of climbable rock out there that doesn't need to be 'cleaned'. I'd say move on.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:37 am

I think you need to consider what region the route is in.I cleaned up the bottom of a good crack once.I still wonder if I should have.It is a popular spot and the route is worth doing.I trundled a loose rock too.It made a good route better. I think the moss will grow back if it's in a spot that catches a drip and stays damp.Just don't get carried away and alm everything in your path.You could be ripping out flowers and who knows what.

Post by **dhoyne** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 4:37 am

If it's RIGHT next to a face climb, there's probably a reason the FA didin't clean the crack. However, if it's a few feet to the side, clean that bad boy out and climb it!

As J-Rock said, some cracks leak water forever and therefore grow moss faster than it can be cleaned. If you want, scrub it and go for it!

Just PLEASE don't bitch at the FA party for not making a pristine route for you -- they already spend a lot of time and money to fix bolts for you to clip on to!!!

Post by **Steve** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 2:51 pm

Hey skeeter,I just noticed your Thoreau quote signature. Just think WWTD?