reward for gear

[Huggybone]

This weekend was really strange. I had a riot, even though I couldn't climb a hill of beans. We decided to go to sky bridge because of the short approach, in order to keep puppies foot in good shape. Anyway,

Saturday: Warm up on that 5.8 sport route. I forgot how cool it really was, particularly if you do it in pouring rain. We decide to have a snack, and wait out the rain over by the inhibitor, which was soaked. We wait. Everything gets wet, save no return and good times, both of which we have done a gazillion times. So I decide to do king me...Many falls later, I get past the crux, and into the soaking wet slab. I bail.

After a few hours, the rain dries up, so we get on jack in the pulpit, which, a few weeks ago, I did with one fall (leading) and clean on a toprope. Many, many falls later, I bail.

Since the weather is holding, and we are worn out, we decide to leave and cook dinner. Beautiful night, perfect, dry and awesome.

The next day we go to Sky Bridge. Alexis wants to lead the underling.
So she leads up to the last move. 'Um, I don't think I can do this.' What? How can we clean this? 'Bring me down.' Oh boy, I'm getting nervous, because I know that I have to climb, and then down climb, all but the last move. We wait a while, have some trail mix, and we pull the rope. I tie in. I'm nervous because I know that I can't downclimb 5.9. The upside goes fine, and when it comes time to move back, it also goes fine. In fact, downclimbing the underling is better than two stars, it is three stars. Cool moves.

So I'm all jazzed up, and decide 'I want do something I haven’t done before.' And, for me, at Sky Bridge, that means either climbing some of the raging piles, or something really hard. Since I'm whipped out from the day before, I decide on a raging pile. The particular pile was 'outback.'
Now, I've climbed some total piles in my life, and this one takes the cake as the most deceiving. Usually, when looking up at a route, you can tell if 1) the grade has some sort of relevance to the actual climb, 2) if the rock quality is any good, and 3) if it will be any fun. This climb 1) has no relationship to its grade (except that it has no stars), 2) Looks like the rock is at least decent, with good pro, and 3) Look really fun. For some reason, I am really slow. Really slow. Eventually I realize it is because I am 30 feet up, and would trust any of my pieces for about the weight of a hat. Also, in order to get a good piece, I have to cram my body into a squeeze chimney. About thirty minutes later the deed is done, and I have two good pieces clipped. Now, this is one of those climbs that make you look at your pro, then look down, and think, 'man, if I fell from here, it would be like pachinko!' So, I am weary about falling. Another twenty minutes and ten feet follow, with a couple of manky pieces that are sure to walk as soon as I am above them. I think, no problem, I'll just crank on this hand jam and get my feet up by it, then jam into that moss pile above the mini-ledge.' Of course, it does not work and I have to downclimb back into the slot. I try again, and this time I get it. My hand, in the moss jam, is cracking so hard I thought my bones would break. My foot searches for a spot, and misses. My jam begins to slip. No, slip is the wrong word. When my foot missed, I fell, and took a three inch skidder on my handjam.

But, somehow, I don't fall (thank god, pachinko), and heave into the next chimney. Set a tipped out number 5, and truck up to the next roof. Here, I have a ledge, and rest for many minutes. As the rock is total crap, I set not one, two, three or four, but FIVE pieces. Each one seems suspect to me, but I guess they were OK. After many minutes, I poke my head around to see what is above the roof: more moss. But this isn't the lichen kind; it is full on, green and wet. So I sit on my ledge a little longer.

Finally, I go over, and it is about 5.8. I poke my head into the next chimney, and stand up. I sling a huge tunnel, and wait again. My last moves will require me to really lean back. My shoes are covered in moss. I poke around to look at the face climbing that is next. Looks hard.
Finally, and after much deliberation, I bail. I leave a 4' sling, and nut, and two biners.

Weekend send count = 0
Weekend gear loss = 4 biners, 1 two foot sling, one four foot sling.

Now, it is said that misery loves company, and therefore I am offering a reward of ten dollars to anyone who climbs 'the outback' and gives me my gear.

Funny, while climbing I recalled something someone said here 'Adventure climbing: the act of climbing raging piles of sh!+ on purpose.'

[J-Rock]

Welcome to the jungle. Often I pay more attention to the quality rating than the difficulty. However, considering that this is a 5.9 Tom Siebert route from 1980 and it has seen few repeats... you might be in for an adventure.

[marathonmedic]

That or when the spray list for the route only has Johnny listed, it could be an adventure. But adventures are good for you, they build character or some such thing.

[busty]

You could always cart an extension ladder out there, although I suspect that would make the approach an epic itself.

[marathonmedic]

How about some skis? Maybe mudboarding, but then how do you get out?

[Dwayne]

Sorry, don't think I can do, but that story was great!

[Alan Evil]

Huggybone,

I just wanted to compliment you on your writing. Very enjoyable. Don't expect me to bring you your gear, though.

[dipsi]

Not to fear, Huggy, I'm on my way! 8)

hee, hee, I crack me up!

[Alan Evil]

C'mon, Di! I'll belay you.

[Huggybone]

Thanks.