Lead Gear Suggestions

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:43 pm

longlegsrule wrote:I thought OP stuff was breaking?

If you mean OP stuff are not of good quality, I would beg to differ. All our (J-Rock and mine) biners are by OP and with the abuse we give our gear (ie: a rope only lasts us an average of 8 months), esp with route setting, I would say OP biners and draws are great, if not the greatest.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 7:46 pm

Huggybone wrote:actually, there is a stick clip for cams.
Requirements: a black diamond cam, tape, and a stick.

Hey, Huggy, wanna test this method and FA the horizontal crack above Tradisfaction/Kentucky Waterfall? I heard that's the only way it'll go....

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:06 pm

I was playing with a Trango Cinch a few weeks back when the factory rep was in town and I'm planning on getting one. It's designed so you can hold the brake off with a single finger of your brake hand and hold the tail of the rope with the remaining fingers. Best of all the catch is small enough that if a leader takes a fall it's very hard to keep the brake off (unlike a gri-gri) since it just slips out from under your finger and the brake is on.

Post by **longlegsrule** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:11 pm

Trango Cinch

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:26 pm

squeezindlemmon wrote:
longlegsrule wrote:I thought OP stuff was breaking?
If you mean OP stuff are not of good quality, I would beg to differ. All our (J-Rock and mine) biners are by OP and with the abuse we give our gear (ie: a rope only lasts us an average of 8 months), esp with route setting, I would say OP biners and draws are great, if not the greatest.

shit...you call that abuse?! i ruined a brand new 10 mil mammut in one day. 8 months for a rope is pretty average at best. perhaps you should be on the "i climb every once in a while at the red" forum.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:37 pm

You elitists and your "I can ruin a rope more quickly than you" attitudes. Why don't you tell everyone how you ruined your new rope, Ho? You might not seem quite so cool when they find out it's because you coiled it up into a huge cone and made love to it with the razorblade strap-on you keep in the bottom of your pack.

Post by **diggum** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:37 pm

What about this package to start?
http://www.shorelinemtn.com/Pages/Produ ... amic+Ropes

Post by **longlegsrule** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:42 pm

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... ga+pacific

SikMonkey wrote:Hey Vic,
actually I have heard stories about Omega biners failing when the gate was open (I think a Swiss climber died from the fall too), and it seems like every other Omega I see hanging on a route at the cliff has an open gate. I don't trust them at all.

Mj

Wes wrote:So, biners do fail. I have heard of two at just the red in the last couple years. Both times they were not very long falls onto draws that had been *fixed* on a hard sport route, and had been there for a while. One was Big H on BOHICA (I think), and the other was on Table of Colors (this is second hand) and happen in the last week or so.

Wes

Post by **diggum** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:46 pm

I was wondering about the Trango Cinch, but I'd like to get my hands on one before I actually ordered it to see how it does.

Post by **meetVA** » Thu Nov 04, 2004 8:49 pm

I would second the suggestion on a stick clip. Especially when you first start to climb. Although you aren't safe from decking until the second bolt having that first one done would have saved my dumb heel some trouble. They hardly weigh much and you can use it as a walking stick!