Negative Energy

Post by **haas** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:33 pm

I went looking for this route the other day and wasn't quite sure that I found it. I scrambled up the squat dihedral to the really big ledge and walked maybe 40ft. to the left to find a really short, overhanging pockety wall, but I didn't really see a crack, especially one that would take gear. Did I not go far enough on the ledge? The trail up there seems to die almost immediatly, as does the rock. John's guidebook says go 100ft., but doesn't say in which direction. I thought it meant obviously left, but I couldn't find anything...

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 4:26 pm

Are you sure you didn't see the crack? It's an obvious splitter in the overhanging pocketed wall. Very steep. Turns less steep toward the top. Sounds like you were right there.

Post by **Wes** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 4:30 pm

Negative Energy

At first I thought you were talking about what I call on to help send really hard (for me) boulder problems. Like thinking bad thoughts about good people. Then I realized it was about the route. Didn't you all down rate that thing?

Wes

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 4:40 pm

I had a bad flashback when I saw this thread title. Remember that 100 page thread when we got our asses ripped for downrating it? I kept the rating the same. Shit, I'll take it at .11d.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 5:06 pm

i'll downrate that pile of shit. it's fucking 30 feet of perfect hand jams. what's .11d about that?

Post by **rabbit** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 5:50 pm

Let me know when you want to go out and downrate it. I want to climb it too! PM me.

Post by **loren** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 8:21 pm

haas,

I had the same experience this summer. I went up that same short dihedral and found only a pocketed overhang with no crack. I never did find it.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 8:45 pm

I heard it got chopped.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:07 pm

Man, where are you guys looking?

You drive through the tunnel and park on the right. Hike up the hill to the left kind of following a cliff band. Eventually you come to a dihedral (about 5.2) that you have to solo for like 10 feet. Head left along a slightly overhanging bullet-pocketed wall with some chalk from bouldering. Keep following the wall until it turns a corner then gets extremely steep. This is where Negative Energy is. If you walk past Negative Energy you will fall off the cliff.

The route is worth doing for sure. It's steep and powerful and although the hands are good, there is one spot where it gets kind of weird. It's a fun route.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 28, 2004 12:07 am

5.10 at best.