Sanctuary sandbag

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 3:13 pm

512OW wrote:Henry Barber is a crackhead. See what happens when somebody who never climbs here thinks he knows......??

I'm sure the same has been suggested about you.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 3:15 pm

Nah...I don't spray about areas I don't know about. I know about the red. In fact, I was called by climbing magazine years ago because they wanted the REAL scoop on the fight between traddies and sporties here. After I told em, they decided it would be detrimental to the climbing community to publish it.

Coexist nicely?? Doubt it.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 3:38 pm

512OW wrote: the REAL scoop ...

Funny how people think their own opinions/views of things is the REAL scoop and anybody else who disagrees is just a crackhead.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 8:59 pm

Or the more they spew the more they think people listen.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 9:13 pm

squeezindlemmon wrote:
512OW wrote: the REAL scoop ...
Funny how people think their own opinions/views of things is the REAL scoop and anybody else who disagrees is just a crackhead.

Also funny how a former prominent sport climber opened his mouth to the magazine about the problems here between sport and trad, and then gave a bullshit story. They called us to get the truth cuz they knew we'd give it. Truth. Yes, the real scoop. Seems to me I probably know a bit more about the goings on in the Red than Henry Barber. Or you, for that matter, if its outside the Southern Region.

Post by **Spoonman** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 9:13 pm

For the grade of "Psyberpunk"..........I take a climb of the same basic type (vertical, overhung, etc.) and find a benchmark. In this case I took "prime directive" at Funk rock. The bottom of this route is basically easy. You get a bit pumped going out onto the face, but once there you have a no-hands rest and a a deceptive 11b move. Maybe give one letter for the pump so one 11a/b move.

The cruxes on "Psyberpunk" are much easier than this BENCHMARK. Being vertical an being able to rest off small holds.......the two cruxes together do not seem additive. So the second crux gets the grade and feels about 5.10d to me. I can see where it may be hieght dependent, yet I am average hieght.

Miss 59 inch DB is not an average hieght and I doubt there are many routes graded for her size.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 9:14 pm

marathonmedic wrote:Or the more they spew the more they think people listen.

What exactly is it that I'm spewing? And why would I care if you listen?

Post by **rabbit** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 10:34 pm

If you didn't care if people listened then why are you linking your songs?

Listen, learn and, most importantly, CLIMB!

Post by **ynot** » Fri Oct 22, 2004 1:46 am

Just something I learned from an old schooler.

Post by **J-Rock** » Fri Oct 22, 2004 2:38 am

Yeah, that move on Prime Directive is definitely deceptive. I cost me the onsight.