Sanctuary sandbag

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 1:37 am

SCIN wrote:If you onsite a route and then give it a grade, isn't that rating it based on onsite? What is the FA supposed to do? Climb the route again just to give it a "redpoint grade"?

Sure is, but the grade shouldn't stand at that if someone finds an easier sequence. Downgrading = good. Upgrading = bad.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 1:38 am

SCIN wrote:Which three routes?

For historical reasons, Astroman and Seperate Reality. To clear my conscience of that one stupid placed piece, Thurmo.

Thats it. One year. Thats all I'm investing.

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 1:41 am

Shit man, I thought you were gonna say 8-Ball, Snooker, and Table of Colors!

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 1:43 am

Oh yeah, those too. And Chainsaw Massacre.

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 11:37 am

By the way, there are more trad and mixed routes at Muir than there are sport climbs (there are still several that haven't been listed yet in the online guide, need more cleaning, anchors, etc). This is true for the Red as a whole also.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 12:24 pm

ynot wrote:I was told the second grades it and the FA names it. Makes good sense to me.

Where in the world did you get that?

Post by **J-Rock** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 12:27 pm

Generally the first 3 or 4 people to climb the route will come up with some kind of a consensus grade. Later that can be adjusted either way after several others have climbed the route and given their input.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 2:27 pm

ynot wrote:The sporties screw it up. They should have thier own scale like the ice climbers,boulderers and aid. sport and trad are different they need different scales. then they can make up thier own rules all they want.

Rock & Ice # 138 - The Elements of Style

R&I: Can sport climbs and trad routes co-exist?

Henry Barber: The Red River Gorge and New River Gorge have excellent trad and sport routes that co-exist.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 3:07 pm

J-Rock wrote:By the way, there are more trad and mixed routes at Muir than there are sport climbs (there are still several that haven't been listed yet in the online guide, need more cleaning, anchors, etc). This is true for the Red as a whole also.

And I've climbed a few of the routes there. I just don't like crowds, and the routes there really don't fit my training schedule.

Post by **512OW** » Thu Oct 21, 2004 3:08 pm

Henry Barber is a crackhead. See what happens when somebody who never climbs here thinks he knows......??