beginner lead climbs

Post by **peteypab** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 6:38 pm

My friend Tom and I just took out first trip to the gorge yesterday and I also did my first oudoor lead climb on Ledger Line down in Roadside Crag. It was a great experience, a little tenuous between the first and second bolt though.

I was wondering if anyone could recommend other leads for a beginner in the gorge.

Thanks a lot,

Peter

Post by **dipsi** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 6:48 pm

C#/Bflat at Roadside, Lower Expectations at Left Field. I can lead these, so anyone can lead them.

Post by **young'n climber** » Sun Oct 17, 2004 7:18 pm

One word, Thanatopsis!

Post by **strum** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 3:05 am

don't feed the triceratops, and danger mouse at pistol ridge
also check out some of the stuff in the southern region of Muir Valley, for some fun 5.8.
the roadside slab wall is fun, but all the climbs are basically the same, so check out some of this other stuff!!

Post by **marathonmedic** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 3:36 am

I'd suggest staying away from the "easy wall" at Roadside. Most of those climbs are a bit sketchy and have enormous cheese grater potential, at least IMHO. Try Eureka at Global Village or the .7 and .8 climbs at Muir. These things are great, platey climbs that are well bolted and still have good moves without the penalties for falling that Roadside has.

Post by **chriss** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 9:44 am

Go over to left Flank and try Mr. Bungle. Its a great beginner lead climb. And as they said, Eureka and the routes at pistol ridge are good as well.

Post by **meetVA** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:17 pm

Don't do Face up to that Arete at Muir. It isn't worth the time to go over there unless you are going to hop onto the 10's and 11's near it.

Is Blue Plate Special open again in the southern region?
Also, the "10" wall...with spinner on the far right really isn't a "10" yet in my book. But you would be looking at some cleaning of the route if you are overgripping and wildly throwing to the plates...

What else have you gotten on? Welcome to the Gorge!

Post by **J-Rock** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:23 pm

Try "Karmic Retribution" 5.10a (sport) for a "soft" 10.

Post by **J-Rock** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:23 pm

The route is only a week old and I already got a bail beaner off of it.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Oct 18, 2004 1:49 pm

meetVA wrote:Is Blue Plate Special open again in the southern region?

Unfortunately not.

It's at Oil Crack.