Up Yonder whooped hell out of me this weekend. Couldn't even pull some of the moves. Some huge holds that were flat as hell. Gonna be a long time before I can do that one. On the other hand, that 11 to the left of Bandolier (Centerfire?) felt entirely doable. Just gotta hold on and shuffle through some smaller holds above the sixth bolt. The bottom was soggy, but the upper part was dry.
Thanks to whoever left the draws on it. It encouraged me to give it a shot.
See, I did up Yonder pretty quick compared to centerfire, which I haven't done yet. Yonder is just about getting the right beta, milking a couple *rests*, and firing the crux.
Yonder is beta intensive-figure out what holds you want and fire it out. I find centerfire one of those routes I do a little differently each time, and feel desperate each time going around the lasat bolt.
Hell yeah, that last bolt is some scary stuff pullin up onto that slab from a nice gently overhung face. Slab sux, but Centerfire is still all about resting the whole way up.
Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?
Centerfire is all about left hand lock off, SKIP the bad shit and REACH to the big jugs. 8)
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.