Overhanging Jug Hauls?

Post by **Zspider** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:32 pm

I'm not a very good climber but I have developed some endurance on a small wall in my garage that allows me to hang on and make non-technical moves on moderately overhanging rock. After puzzling out the bottom crux on Fuzzy Undercling I was able to redpoint it. I plan on going back now and doing a bunch of 10s, hopefully gaining some technique and finesse in the process.

But I would also like to find some other 11s and maybe even a 12a that caters to my strength, which is nontechnical and straightforward jug hauls on overhanging rock. Can you give me some suggestions? Keep in mind that if the crux is not on steep rock, I probably won't be able to do it. I barely made it up slabby 5.8 Cordelia on lead. Right now I have Ro Shampo in mind.

Thank you, ZSpider

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:38 pm

Up Yonder, but the crux takes some technique

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:41 pm

Bare Metal Teen
Kick me in the Jimmie
Chainsaw Massacre
Return of Chris Snyder
Up Yonder and Way up Yonder
Buddha Hole
Ethics Police
Twinkie

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:41 pm

TWINKIE!

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:44 pm

Are you sure you're ready for 12s, Z?

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:49 pm

great way to train for 5.12 climbing at the Red...

Do all the 5.10's at Roadside plus up yonder..in a day twice, when that is easy for you then go to Torrent and do all the 5.11's in a day, if that is an easy day...then you'll be ready for most 5.12 climbing at the Red

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:55 pm

Woah

Post by **haas** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:06 pm

for higher .10s and low .11s try these if you're not quite ready for .12s

creepshow
count floyd show
King Me
Breakfast Burrito
Whip Stocking
Jack in the Pulpit
the .10s at Roadside

although I gotta mention Twinkie

Post by **SikMonkey** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:06 pm

If you want a nice short, powerful route that some call 12a, go to the Zoo and do Hippocrite. It's great.

Mj

Post by **haas** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:11 pm

I think that's the best route at the zoo, hands down