My son has a Trango Cinch that he picked up while climbing in Poland. He loves it. I will see if I can bring it down this weekend and next. I'll be at the local rep meeting tomorrow and at the Gathering next weekend.
Rick,
I believe the idea of having the 'practice' wall is fantastic. At the gym I climb at, we've set rings up low enough to the ground so that we could instruct and allow for hands on practice for cleaning anchors.
Thanks to all who are striving to make the Red a safer place to climb by assisting those less skilled.
Geoff
Ground fall at Torrent, Sunday Sept 5
On the subject of questioning the functionality of belay devices...
Has anyone ever had any trouble with Reversos?
I have never used one, but I refuse to let anyone lead belay me with a reverso anymore.
I have been short-roped on every single clip, from every belayer that has ever used a reverso to belay me. It doesn't seem to be correlated to the competence of the belayer, but the device itself.
Has anyone ever had any trouble with Reversos?
I have never used one, but I refuse to let anyone lead belay me with a reverso anymore.
I have been short-roped on every single clip, from every belayer that has ever used a reverso to belay me. It doesn't seem to be correlated to the competence of the belayer, but the device itself.
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Guest
Caspian, I have a Reverso and have used it for lead belaying without any problems at all.. I have also been belayed on lead with it. Again, no problems. The device has two modes. Used in one way, it is just like a standard tuber. It also has autolocking capability. Perhaps your belayers were using it in this mode? That's not appropriate for lead belaying.
The only reason I don't use it all the time is that I can lock off better with my ATC/XP. The Reverso is superb for multi-pitch climbing, though, as you can use it directly on the anchors.
The only reason I don't use it all the time is that I can lock off better with my ATC/XP. The Reverso is superb for multi-pitch climbing, though, as you can use it directly on the anchors.
I use a reverso outside all the time. There's two different friction modes when used as a normal ATC, and it's simply fantastic for belaying the second up a multipitch route.
I've never short roped someone because of it (of course, I may have short roped people because I didn't realize they were clipping, but that's another issue).
I've never short roped someone because of it (of course, I may have short roped people because I didn't realize they were clipping, but that's another issue).
Sarcasm is a tool the weak use to avoid confrontation. People with any balls just outright lie.
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
[quote="Meadows"]I try not to put it in my mouth now, but when I do, I hold it with just my lips.[/quote]
Oh yeah, I forgot... I did smash my head that time at J-tree when I fell off of a bouldering top-out. I was knocked unconscious for a few minutes, but as soon as I woke up I sent the damn thing on the next attempt (we even got it on video).
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
Except for maybe a foot or two extra during clips, and with that promptly pulled reeled back in, I always keep a bare minimum of slack in the rope. I almost always stick clip the first bolt and consider everything until the third clip to be a bit "spooky." As far as I can tell, a fall while attempting a clip on the second bolt represents a grounder on a buttload of sport climbs.
ZSpider
ZSpider