yosemite

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 4:30 pm

Thanks a bunch, skychick.

I'll be looking those places up for sure.

Post by **captain static** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 5:01 pm

I have never really had a chance to climb in the Valley but I did a little side trip climbing when a friend had his wedding at the Awhanee Hotel. Got to do a little bouldering. Then on the day after the wedding went up and did a one pitch trad climb. Chose a 5.6 chimney/crack, my partner was a very occassional climber. Got up on that thing and was 35' off the deck before I could get in a piece. I'm sure like Tom said the place is full of suprises and if you have never climbed on granite it is sure way different than sandstone

Post by **Yasmeen** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 5:34 pm

I'm hoping to check out the Berkeley boulders today... we'll see. If I don't get the chance to do that, can anyone think of any good bouldering south of San Francisco? The beach at which we're staying is called Carmel, and I think it's south of SF by 1.5 hours. So, if anyone knows of anything within an hour of that would be awesome.

Post by **bigwhipper** » Sun Aug 01, 2004 11:12 pm

Closest bouldering to Carmel of note is Castle Rock State Park off Highway 9 near Santa Cruz (a little north of Carmel/Monterey). It's smooth Fontainbleau-looking rock and was one of Sharma's old stomping grounds. I know there are lots of tough problems, I can't remember how many moderates. There is a gym in Monterey and in Santa Cruz (Pacific Edge), call them they'll help ya or do a internet search.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Aug 02, 2004 12:44 am

Thanks, bigwhipper. I just spent the day bouldering at Mission Cliffs, and the place kicks ass! I'd recommend it to anyone who's in the area and not on a climbing trip, but wants to stay in shape. It's awesome because it's not just a climbing gym-- between burns you can do cardio or lift weights or whatever. The people there are really cool too-- employees and other climbers.

Post by **Zspider** » Thu Jun 27, 2024 3:11 am

I heartily suggest the Royal Arches. I think it rates a 5.7 with a tiny bit of aid that consists of swinging a couple feet on a fixed rope. It's a slabby piece that frees at 5.9, I believe. Good protection all the way. Some route finding challenges. I would suggest rappelling the excellent stations rather than the dangerous walk down the North Dome Gully. Double-rope rappels and we had no problem, but there are stories of people getting their ropes hung on the pull. Obviously, knot the bottom of the ropes so you don't slide off. If you want to do the walk down, ascend it first to get it wired. The danger in walking off is if you don't know where it is you might start too early and you get sucked into steeper and steeper downclimb and then you slip and take a nasty 500 foot fall. That would probably ruin the rest of your day.

People talk about doing it in 2 hours and getting back down to the ground in another hour or two. Maybe for super climbers with it wired to the hilt, but you better start when the sun is coming up, and bring a headlamp.

A very enjoyable climb with good protection and an absolutely beautiful view of the valley.

ZSpider