waterknots

[RQClimber]

Interesting. I wonder if it actually works as well as they say it does.

I'll have one of my staff jump up and down on one tommorrow and see if it holds; then report back.

[marathonmedic]

scientific, but better than nothing.

[scotty]

the beer knot sounds really interesting, but i personally like seeing both ends of the water knot. i have a couple of slings i've taken lead falls on with no slippage, but i set the knots buy jumping on them before i used them...they're at least 3-4 years old now and totally bomb proof.

[Meadows]

http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/sa ... ater_knots

[vic]

It has been known that waterknots will come undone - which is why it is better to check and recheck as your party raps down or something. If you want proof, go to Pistol Ridge, find the route named It's a Wonderful Life, and top out on the x section. You will see a rap anchors at the top... and you will see what an IDIOT has done nearby: Tied a waterknot around a tiny tree... obviously placed to rap down. There is less than 1/4 inch left on the knot... Good luck!
1. The tree is too small.
2. The knot doesn't have enough tail.
3. There is no redundancy on the system.
4. That's just too many options for errors to take place.
5. There are rap anchors at the top... USE THEM!

[t bone]

I always leave a long tail, then set the knot and tape the tail down with duct tape. It stays put for a long time.

[J-Rock]

Yup, or you can tie a safety knot with the extra ends. I always tighten and weight the knot before rapping off from it. I wish they came loose a little easier because they are such a pain in the ass to untie most of the time!

[vic]

Rub them in your hands... they will come right off!

[J-Rock]

I've never been able to loosen a water knot very easily. I usually smack them on the rocks in the palm of my hands for an eternity. Sometimes I just give up and leave them.

[andy_lemon]

Flat head screwdriver works nicely... wiggle it, don't push it or you'll fuck up the webbing.