glass menagerie

[john e aragon]

i would like beta on this route. one source says 2 sets micro nuts, 2 sets nuts, 3-4 sets of cams to 3" and some larger sizes with a set of cam hooks would do the job. is the 5.6R runout or is it ledge fall? could this route be done with a silent partner?

[Wes]

Get the topo that was in Rock and Ice or climbing maybe a year or so ago. Bart did it. Very good. And the new NC guidebook by Shull has good ones as well. Not sure if he checks his PMs, but Bat Guano (bart) has done a bunch of stuff on the dark side of the glass.

It is a pretty good solo, as all the belay's are bolted, and there is a ton of fixed gear. I was going to solo it spring before last, but made it to the wall, and found out I didn't have my solo device (Gri-Gri)...

You might also post on the seclimbers.org bbs.

Wes

[J-Rock]

If you haven't already seen it, check out "Naskarma".

[Danny]

i would like beta on this route. one source says 2 sets micro nuts, 2 sets nuts, 3-4 sets of cams to 3" and some larger sizes with a set of cam hooks would do the job. is the 5.6R runout or is it ledge fall? could this route be done with a silent partner?

John. The most important thing to know is that yes the last pitch is very run out with mandatory slab free climbing. If it is wet it is very dangerous. Be prepared to wrap from the beginning of the last pitch. This may require down aiding to get to previous anchors. The gear sounds about right. You probably don't need so many cams, definitely not 4 of a size. However the last two pitches can eat up the 0.75 to 2 if you don't backclean. You might want to beef up on these for the last pitches. You will want a #3.5 and #4 for the next to last pitch which you can use to french free. Offset nuts are always good. You can fix under the roof traverse pitch with a 60 meter rope. If you are familiar with the silent partner it should work fine but a grigri will do the job also.

[Danny]

Oh I didn't see mention of hooks in your gear. Cam hooks are optional but hooks are necessary. A talon, cliff hanger and grappling ought to do ya. A narrow logan might be useful too.

[scotty]

danny has all the right beta on the gear. i did the first two pitches a couple of weeks ago and used all of the hooks danny mentions. i also recommend doing the
C1 travese for the 2nd pitch, it makes the start of the 3rd much easier plus you can link the first 3 pitches together with a 60m.

once you go gri gri you never go back, just don't forget the back ups!!!

[john e aragon]

thanks very much. sounds like i should rap-off before that run-out if it is wet. (is this possible?) if it is not wet then i am sure i can handled it. thanks again, i hope i don't have to use this beta though. this is my back up plan in case my climbing buddy backs out of our T-wall trip at the last minute. how is the weather in NC in early september?

[ynot]

Should be nice but figure on one day of rain.

[Crankmas]

I ran across the issue of Climbing with these topos I think it was issue 124, PM me if you would like to check out my copy.