new routes

Post by **pogue** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 12:52 am

This is kevin pogue of Creature Feature and Pogue Ethics fame. I'm returning to my old stomping grounds in a week or so to visit the folks after several years and was hoping to get in a day or two of climbing at "the gorge" (that's what we called it in the 70's and early 80's). I would love to be pointed in the direction of any newer fun moderate well-protected (5.7-5.10) sport routes. Yes I know exactly what the weather will be like (I'm a native). I'm going to drop off a copy of Ed Pearsall's guidebook from 1980 at Miguel's so folks can have a few laughs at the expense of us dinosaurs. At the very least it will give you a pre-bolt perspective of the area. Thanks in advance for any beta.

-=> kevin

Post by **Wes** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 3:33 am

Roadside has a pretty good collection of that range, tend to be slabby.

Torrent has 4 routes in the 5.9-10+ range near windy corner. Steeper and very cool.

Global Village has (2) 5.6, a 5.10a, a 5.10b, and maybe a couple harder tens.

Muir valley has a very nice "5.10" wall, with three 10's in a row, then another 10 and a 9 just around the corner.

Oil crag and Between walls are closed, but have a bunch of those ranges.

Best of luck, and hope you have fun!

Wes

Post by **pianomahnn** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 11:25 am

Wes wrote:Muir valley has a very nice "5.10" wall, with three 10's in a row, then another 10 and a 9 just around the corner.

I'd like to mention that these 10s seem a fair but easier than other 10s I've climbed in "the gorge" (

).

Either way, they're still fun.

Post by **pogue** » Sat Jul 03, 2004 6:18 pm

Thanks for the tips. I checked out the Muir Valley website and it looks very appealing. I think that's where I'll be headed - can't wait for a taste of an ice-cold Ale-8-one!

-=> kevin

Post by **Lucinda** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 5:57 pm

What? Its not called "da Gorge" anymore?

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 7:05 pm

If you called it the gorge, why don't you call it L-8 (barely more than LA) instead of Ale-8-One.

I've always called it just "the gorge." I guess with so many destinations like Owens River Gorge, New River Gorge, Linville Gorge, Tallulah Gorge and others that climbers need to differentiate.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 7:06 pm

Also, you might want to check out a route called Overlord at Phantasia. Its just around the corner from Lord of the Flies. It'll probably bring back fond memories.

Post by **Buster** » Sun Jul 04, 2004 7:41 pm

They don't over bolt choss heaps anymore around the Red. You should go to Abbingdon instead for routes with bolts every 6 feet.

Post by **pogue** » Mon Jul 05, 2004 11:16 pm

You sound like you have strongly held opinions Buster. Too bad IMHO "they don't overbolt choss heaps in (the gorge)" anymore. "Overbolting" is in the eye of the beholder. Yours is typically an attitude adopted by elitists who would prefer to keep the rock to themselves. If other sports adopted that viewpoint there'd be no bunny slopes at the ski areas, no little league baseball fields, etc. etc. Abbingdon sounds fun if your description is accurate. Now all I have to do is figure out where it is!

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Tue Jul 06, 2004 2:21 am

southwest virginia. plenty of dirt and lots of bolts. they even have manequins sticking out of the rock and old chairs bolted to the cliff. have fun.