First week of Auguest will be super hot in the valley. Better to climb up in the Meadows. And, anyway, once you have experenced PURE climbing in WY next week, you will just want to borrow a pad and work the killer bouldering there anyway.
Wes
yosemite
If you are going to "stick" (its gonna be hot) in the valley check out some of the classics. Sacherer Cracker 5.10a, La Cosita, Left 5.7, La Cosita, Right 5.9, Little John 5.8, Pine Line 5.7, Moby Dick 5.10a and that's just at the base of El Cap. A super classic is Nutcracker 5.8 at Manure Pile Buttress. Its a easy hike to the start and a walk off. Just get there early because its real popular.
If you want to do a long easy climb check out Royal Arches 5.7, its 1400 feet of nice safe fun climbing. Rap or make sure you know the walk off before hand.
If you never have climbed there I would check out a few 5.7's and 8's before jumping on a valley 5.9.
Consider purchasing Yosemite Ultra Classics from supertopo.com, it has all the routes plus many more I have listed in the best detail published.
Have a great time...I'm really jealous!
If you want to do a long easy climb check out Royal Arches 5.7, its 1400 feet of nice safe fun climbing. Rap or make sure you know the walk off before hand.
If you never have climbed there I would check out a few 5.7's and 8's before jumping on a valley 5.9.
Consider purchasing Yosemite Ultra Classics from supertopo.com, it has all the routes plus many more I have listed in the best detail published.
Have a great time...I'm really jealous!
Definitely get Yosemite Ultra Classics rather than the Falcon guide (yosemite free climbs) by Don Reid. The locals may make fun of you, but its got WAY better information for someone who isn't familiar with the area.
Like kneebar said, get on some .7's and .8's before trying .9's. Another great single pitch .8 that hasn't been mentioned is bishop's terrace.
as for some harder stuff, the cookie cliff is one of the best crags in the country! my favorite combo there was beverly's tower (10a) to wheat thins (10c) and from those anchors you can toprope butterballs (11c) which is one of the sweetest fingercracks ever.
Like kneebar said, get on some .7's and .8's before trying .9's. Another great single pitch .8 that hasn't been mentioned is bishop's terrace.
as for some harder stuff, the cookie cliff is one of the best crags in the country! my favorite combo there was beverly's tower (10a) to wheat thins (10c) and from those anchors you can toprope butterballs (11c) which is one of the sweetest fingercracks ever.
August will be scorching during the day. You may have to climb in the shade, very early in the day. I've been on reasonably graded stuff like Pine Line (5.7), and sandbagged stuff like Classic Jamcrack (also 5.7 - not that hard, but slippery and tricky). So be careful about what you get on - there are some serious surprises. Manure Pile has some great stuff, and Nutcracker is supposed to be really fun, but the "5.8" mantle move is well above the last gear placement, so know what you're getting yourself into.
Also, a lot of the long, easy routes like Royal Arches have seen tons of accidents and rescues. It runs up-and-right for a few pitches, then curves around to up-and-left, so there isn't a straightforward rap-off line for most of it, and the walk-off is supposedly really tricky. Be sure to ask around Camp 4 before you get on stuff like that to hear some opinions about what the tricks are. (And don't take any one person's opinion. You'll meet real nut cases and people who will f**k with you, but that's all part of the fun!)
Also, a lot of the long, easy routes like Royal Arches have seen tons of accidents and rescues. It runs up-and-right for a few pitches, then curves around to up-and-left, so there isn't a straightforward rap-off line for most of it, and the walk-off is supposedly really tricky. Be sure to ask around Camp 4 before you get on stuff like that to hear some opinions about what the tricks are. (And don't take any one person's opinion. You'll meet real nut cases and people who will f**k with you, but that's all part of the fun!)
Bacon is meat candy.
My family changed plans and we're spending most of the week at the beach, no time in Yosemite. But I thought I'd ask around and see if anyone knows of any climbing around the San Francisco Bay Area. Any beta? Bouldering is probably better, as I don't want to take more than just shoes and a chalk bag...
"I snatched defeat from the jaws of victory." --Paul
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(Emails > PMs)
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(Emails > PMs)
Climbing in Bay Area..."Misty watercolor memories!!!" It is one of the more romantic places to climb, in my opinion. It isn't really known for the longest/best quality routes...but, it is georgeous & not to be missed! Depending upon how adventurous you want to be, you can find quite a bit.
1. Berkeley--Indian Rock. This is the most easily accessible, in my opinion. In Berkely, there are two sets of boulders, about 1 block apart. The lower rocks have a super-long v1/v2 traverse and a handful of other v2-v4's. The upper rocks (I think it is called Morter Rock) have a couple v2's/v3's...but it only gets harder from there. These are in the Berkeley hills & will give you an awesome view of sunset over SF. (plus, up the back side of the boulder, steps have been chiseled out of the rock, so family can easily walk up the steps to see the sunset w/ a glass of vino).
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... AreaID=264
2. Stinson Beach/Mickey's Beach. There are a bunch of sport climbs & bouldering at these areas, depending upon the tide. Stinson beach is about a 30-45 minute drive north of SF (not including serious traffic). It is pretty popular. Mickey's beach is 2 miles south of Stinson beach & is known for the 'nude beach' next to the climbing. (you are not expected to climb naked). It has some good 4-6 bolt leads (ranging from 5.10a to 5.12+). Not so confident there is any trad here....
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... reaID=1528
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... reaID=4129
3. Turtle Rock- bouldering. There are quite a few boulders here...and from what I recall...wide variety of difficulties. It is in a park, on the top of a hill...I went there once...it was georgeous...but, I didn't climb much that day.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... reaID=6051
4. Dry Creek Sea Crag. This is a georgeous rock, 1.5 hours north of SF & a half-mile to mile walk to the beach, along a well-marked path. It is another 'beach crag' with 4-5 bolt climbs...there is at least 1 or 2 trad lines (you don't need anything bigger than #2 camalot)...but they are short. When I climbed here, I ase whales migrating, sea-lions beaching themselves, and the sun-set. I think it was one of those magical days, though...
There's a book that you can browse through at "Mission Cliffs" (the climbing gym in the Mission district...website is through http://www.touchstoneclimbing.com ). They are friendly (or at least they were, to me). Also, most of these places are probably decently documented, online (being the Bay area, there are enough computer geek rock climbers to post info about these). I have the book at home--If you PM me about a place, I can get the information to you.
Have a blast!!!
--S
1. Berkeley--Indian Rock. This is the most easily accessible, in my opinion. In Berkely, there are two sets of boulders, about 1 block apart. The lower rocks have a super-long v1/v2 traverse and a handful of other v2-v4's. The upper rocks (I think it is called Morter Rock) have a couple v2's/v3's...but it only gets harder from there. These are in the Berkeley hills & will give you an awesome view of sunset over SF. (plus, up the back side of the boulder, steps have been chiseled out of the rock, so family can easily walk up the steps to see the sunset w/ a glass of vino).
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... AreaID=264
2. Stinson Beach/Mickey's Beach. There are a bunch of sport climbs & bouldering at these areas, depending upon the tide. Stinson beach is about a 30-45 minute drive north of SF (not including serious traffic). It is pretty popular. Mickey's beach is 2 miles south of Stinson beach & is known for the 'nude beach' next to the climbing. (you are not expected to climb naked). It has some good 4-6 bolt leads (ranging from 5.10a to 5.12+). Not so confident there is any trad here....
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... reaID=1528
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... reaID=4129
3. Turtle Rock- bouldering. There are quite a few boulders here...and from what I recall...wide variety of difficulties. It is in a park, on the top of a hill...I went there once...it was georgeous...but, I didn't climb much that day.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... reaID=6051
4. Dry Creek Sea Crag. This is a georgeous rock, 1.5 hours north of SF & a half-mile to mile walk to the beach, along a well-marked path. It is another 'beach crag' with 4-5 bolt climbs...there is at least 1 or 2 trad lines (you don't need anything bigger than #2 camalot)...but they are short. When I climbed here, I ase whales migrating, sea-lions beaching themselves, and the sun-set. I think it was one of those magical days, though...
There's a book that you can browse through at "Mission Cliffs" (the climbing gym in the Mission district...website is through http://www.touchstoneclimbing.com ). They are friendly (or at least they were, to me). Also, most of these places are probably decently documented, online (being the Bay area, there are enough computer geek rock climbers to post info about these). I have the book at home--If you PM me about a place, I can get the information to you.
Have a blast!!!
--S
"Missiles are absolutely antisocial" --Dr. Bronner