Confession

Post by **Saxman** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 6:01 pm

Lost my cool getting shut down on Prime Directive. First time a climb has truly frustrated me. I know the camp full of Christian kids from Lexington down at the river had to have heard my yell

haging from the bolt under the roof. Can't wait to go back for another go. Such a beautiful climb.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:27 pm

You aren't the first so don't worry about it. I did the whiney ass sport climber routine up there at the roof too. I was kind of pissy for about an hour after that too.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 7:31 pm

I'm all nervous about even getting on that route after Spragwa told me that Lurkist told her that he wouldn't fall on those bolts. That said, it looks like a sweet as hell route, and I'm psyched to get on it at some point in life.

Post by **Andrew** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 8:35 pm

Its a commiting route for sure.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 9:54 pm

That thing spanked me last year but I remember it as a really cool climb. I'm looking forward to getting back on it sometime.

Post by **Caspian** » Tue Jun 22, 2004 2:01 am

I took a fall with the bolt at my feet when you come back out on the face and I never even touched the rock.

Post by **Saxman** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 12:55 pm

Hmm, I don't remember the bolts looking that bad. Of course, you don't really take any whippers on it either. If they do need to be replaced, I would be willing to help the bolt fairies on that and any other suspicious routes at Funkrock.

Post by **t bone** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 5:58 pm

Saxman,Funk Rock is in the clifty wilderness, No power drills! Which makes replacing bolts quite a bit more difficult.

Post by **Saxman** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 7:41 pm

Oh yeah, forgot about that. Hmm, someone needs to invent a better human powered drill. Maybe some sort of design based on a bicycle frame. Of course, inward pressure would be a problem.

Hmm, midnight bolting run?

Post by **Spragwa** » Wed Jun 23, 2004 11:32 pm

Saxman, what I've heard is that all of the 10s have suspicious looking bolts and Eye of the Needle shouldn't really be climbed unless you KNOW you aren't falling. But I have no independent ability to assess bolts. I do thoroughly trust the source though.