new user group
If anyone would like to help with the development of Muir Valley then donations would always be welcome. Contact Geezer, T-Bone, or J-Rock. Also, any help would be appreciated with the physical labor. Especially trail construction, route cleaning, or carrying equipment, etc. We have lots of work to do and my greenbacks are rapidly dwindling.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
As a reminder, and for the information of any who might not know, there is an open forum where you can express your questions and concerns about route development. This is the forum set up by the RRGCC at: http://thered.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=5 for climbers to communicate with the Climbing Advisory Council. Now that Mr. Powers has been elected as President of the CAC, the first working meeting of the currently convened CAC is scheduled for July 10, 2004. Please take the time to monitor the RRGCC CAC forum in the interim to be informed on important RRG climbing matters that are being discussed there.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
The following information was taken from several sources and may be used as future CAC guidelines. They have not yet been discussed by the CAC. Like Captain Static stated earlier... any suggestions are welcome. We can make changes if needed. From now on please check the CAC forum on www.thered.org for current information.
These guidelines were prepared from several other coalitions across the US and Europe in order to achieve safe and responsible route setting, as well as to create a level of consistency for protection. It is important to follow these guidelines for obvious safety reasons. Failure to adhere to these guidelines can, and will, result in the route being altered, replaced, or removed. We apologize in advance for any hurt feelings, squashed egos, or overstating the obvious, but it is paramount that we create a safe climbing environment. For now these are only suggestions. There are several regulations that seem silly and will most likely be removed from the list. For example, requiring the use of a static rope for rap bolting, use of safety glasses, and using an even number of chain links, etc.
General:
1. Safe routes MUST be your main concern. Please install your route with forethought and care to cater to the inexperienced or careless climber, and to avoid unnecessary injuries.
2. Toprope your desired route first to be sure it is worthwhile, or even justified. Also this is the correct way to determine bolt placements. Please be sure of your bolt placements BEFORE you place them.
3. Wear a helmet! Loose rock can be dislodged by rope movements above (or below) you.
4. Use static ropes for rap bolting.
5. Any route line that can be SAFELY protected with natural protection must be left unbolted.
6. Clean your route thoroughly of any loose rock or teetering blocks. Most walls can be fairly clean, but be sure to assess any possible loose rock. This includes any "off-route" rocks that are near enough to be dislodged by errant climbing. When cleaning rock be sure no one is in the area below, and that your rope and gear is out of harms way.
7. First time bolters should practice elsewhere first before placing bolts. They should be closely supervised and instructed by an experienced route setter who can supply safe instruction. Beginners should not begin bolting their own lines until they are well schooled.
8. Use only good quality hardware manufactured by reputable companies such as Metolius and Fixe. Home hardware will not be allowed.
9. Do not crowd routes. There should be a minimumof 10 ft between route lines. The only exception to this is a variation to an existing route.
10. Avoid obscene or offensive route names.
11. Once route is approved, installed, and opened, please inform committee of its name, rating, and first ascent so that it may be entered into the next guide.
Bolts and Their Placements:
1. Use 1/2" X 3-3/4" or 4" Rawl 5 piece Expansion Bolts
2. If you encounter placing a "spinner" bolt, please spend the time to remove it. At the very least remove the bolt itself. If necessary chop it with a cold chisel. Do not leave it behind with tape or any other marking.
3. Do not place bolts or anchors on to detached blocks, or areas of rock that have cracks or seams. Unless they are of such a large size or shape to be SURE they will not move under great force.
4. Check your chosen drill spot with your hammer. Make sure it is solid rock, and chip away the patina (the gray surface) to make the hanger sit correctly and flush. Use protective eyewear when hammering rock.
5. When setting clip hangers, be sure to direct the line of stress straight down toward the gravity line. This is the line between the center of the bolt hole and the bottom point of the hanger opening.
6. No Runouts! Bolts need to be placed at reasonable distances, but don't overbolt either.
7. There must not be a potential for ground falls! Place your first clip point early and often.
8. Guard against falls onto ledges.
9. Guard against pulling slack at difficult clip stances.
10. Be considerate of shorter climbers. Clips that are at chest or head level are prefered. Don't force climbers to make a move, or pull slack that will place them in a bad fall.
11. Bolt lines should finish at obvious cliff top. Do not place anchors part way up the wall. If you can't climb the top of the wall for the route you should consider leaving it for someone else. Or bolt entire line and leave it an open project, or red tag your first bolt if you want to reserve the first ascent.
Anchors:
1. Create 2 bolt rap anchors using 3/8" Screw Link (tightened with a wrench) with either a 3 or 5 piece 3/8" chain (X2 for each side of anchor) mounted on a hanger. Do not use even number of chain links. Or, consider using Fixe Ring Anchors. Do not use webbing, single bolt anchor, or washers and chain directly on a bolt.
2. Do not use Cold Shuts or Lap Links
3. When setting hangers for your anchor be sure to direct the line of stress toward the point where the two chains will meet. They should not point straight down as for a clip hanger.
4. If placing hangers above a lip, or top ledge, be sure to dtermine where the chains will stress on the edge of the lip or ledge. The screw link should be abolve this point if possible to allow only the first couple of links of the chain to lay on this stress point. Be sure end link is free of this point. Do not place entire anchor on top of a ledge, which would require pulling a rope over the edge.
5. Project anchors will be respected for a reasonable length of time. After 1 year project anchors will be determined as Open.
Traditional Routes:
Any route line that can be SAFELY protected with natural protection must be left unbolted on the route itself. Please install a Rap Anchor at the TOP of any such route. Please clean the route of potential rock fall and plant matter before attempting any on-site leads.
Feel free to comment and communicate with the CAC members.
These guidelines were prepared from several other coalitions across the US and Europe in order to achieve safe and responsible route setting, as well as to create a level of consistency for protection. It is important to follow these guidelines for obvious safety reasons. Failure to adhere to these guidelines can, and will, result in the route being altered, replaced, or removed. We apologize in advance for any hurt feelings, squashed egos, or overstating the obvious, but it is paramount that we create a safe climbing environment. For now these are only suggestions. There are several regulations that seem silly and will most likely be removed from the list. For example, requiring the use of a static rope for rap bolting, use of safety glasses, and using an even number of chain links, etc.
General:
1. Safe routes MUST be your main concern. Please install your route with forethought and care to cater to the inexperienced or careless climber, and to avoid unnecessary injuries.
2. Toprope your desired route first to be sure it is worthwhile, or even justified. Also this is the correct way to determine bolt placements. Please be sure of your bolt placements BEFORE you place them.
3. Wear a helmet! Loose rock can be dislodged by rope movements above (or below) you.
4. Use static ropes for rap bolting.
5. Any route line that can be SAFELY protected with natural protection must be left unbolted.
6. Clean your route thoroughly of any loose rock or teetering blocks. Most walls can be fairly clean, but be sure to assess any possible loose rock. This includes any "off-route" rocks that are near enough to be dislodged by errant climbing. When cleaning rock be sure no one is in the area below, and that your rope and gear is out of harms way.
7. First time bolters should practice elsewhere first before placing bolts. They should be closely supervised and instructed by an experienced route setter who can supply safe instruction. Beginners should not begin bolting their own lines until they are well schooled.
8. Use only good quality hardware manufactured by reputable companies such as Metolius and Fixe. Home hardware will not be allowed.
9. Do not crowd routes. There should be a minimumof 10 ft between route lines. The only exception to this is a variation to an existing route.
10. Avoid obscene or offensive route names.
11. Once route is approved, installed, and opened, please inform committee of its name, rating, and first ascent so that it may be entered into the next guide.
Bolts and Their Placements:
1. Use 1/2" X 3-3/4" or 4" Rawl 5 piece Expansion Bolts
2. If you encounter placing a "spinner" bolt, please spend the time to remove it. At the very least remove the bolt itself. If necessary chop it with a cold chisel. Do not leave it behind with tape or any other marking.
3. Do not place bolts or anchors on to detached blocks, or areas of rock that have cracks or seams. Unless they are of such a large size or shape to be SURE they will not move under great force.
4. Check your chosen drill spot with your hammer. Make sure it is solid rock, and chip away the patina (the gray surface) to make the hanger sit correctly and flush. Use protective eyewear when hammering rock.
5. When setting clip hangers, be sure to direct the line of stress straight down toward the gravity line. This is the line between the center of the bolt hole and the bottom point of the hanger opening.
6. No Runouts! Bolts need to be placed at reasonable distances, but don't overbolt either.
7. There must not be a potential for ground falls! Place your first clip point early and often.
8. Guard against falls onto ledges.
9. Guard against pulling slack at difficult clip stances.
10. Be considerate of shorter climbers. Clips that are at chest or head level are prefered. Don't force climbers to make a move, or pull slack that will place them in a bad fall.
11. Bolt lines should finish at obvious cliff top. Do not place anchors part way up the wall. If you can't climb the top of the wall for the route you should consider leaving it for someone else. Or bolt entire line and leave it an open project, or red tag your first bolt if you want to reserve the first ascent.
Anchors:
1. Create 2 bolt rap anchors using 3/8" Screw Link (tightened with a wrench) with either a 3 or 5 piece 3/8" chain (X2 for each side of anchor) mounted on a hanger. Do not use even number of chain links. Or, consider using Fixe Ring Anchors. Do not use webbing, single bolt anchor, or washers and chain directly on a bolt.
2. Do not use Cold Shuts or Lap Links
3. When setting hangers for your anchor be sure to direct the line of stress toward the point where the two chains will meet. They should not point straight down as for a clip hanger.
4. If placing hangers above a lip, or top ledge, be sure to dtermine where the chains will stress on the edge of the lip or ledge. The screw link should be abolve this point if possible to allow only the first couple of links of the chain to lay on this stress point. Be sure end link is free of this point. Do not place entire anchor on top of a ledge, which would require pulling a rope over the edge.
5. Project anchors will be respected for a reasonable length of time. After 1 year project anchors will be determined as Open.
Traditional Routes:
Any route line that can be SAFELY protected with natural protection must be left unbolted on the route itself. Please install a Rap Anchor at the TOP of any such route. Please clean the route of potential rock fall and plant matter before attempting any on-site leads.
Feel free to comment and communicate with the CAC members.
Last edited by J-Rock on Sun Jun 20, 2004 2:59 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Bruisebrother
- Posts: 254
- Joined: Wed Dec 11, 2002 11:27 pm
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Horatio Felacio
- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm
j-rock, t-bone, or bruisebrother - is this stuff really enforced upon non-rrgcc members, or are these only suggestions for people putting up routes?J-Rock wrote:These guidelines were prepared by the CAC in order to achieve safe and responsible route setting, as well as to create a level of consistency for protection. It is important to follow these guidelines for obvious safety reasons. Failure to adhere to these guidelines can, and will, result in the route being altered, replaced, or removed. We apologize in advance for any hurt feelings, squashed egos, or overstating the obvious, but it is paramount that we create a safe climbing environment.
General:
1. Safe routes MUST be your main concern. Please install your route with forethought and care to cater to the inexperienced or careless climber, and to avoid unnecessary injuries.
2. Toprope your desired route first to be sure it is worthwhile, or even justified. Also this is the correct way to determine bolt placements. Please be sure of your bolt placements BEFORE you place them.
3. Wear a helmet! Loose rock can be dislodged by rope movements above (or below) you.
4. Use static ropes for rap bolting.
5. Any route line that can be SAFELY protected with natural protection must be left unbolted.
6. Clean your route thoroughly of any loose rock or teetering blocks. Most walls can be fairly clean, but be sure to assess any possible loose rock. This includes any "off-route" rocks that are near enough to be dislodged by errant climbing. When cleaning rock be sure no one is in the area below, and that your rope and gear is out of harms way.
7. First time bolters should practice elsewhere first before placing bolts. They should be closely supervised and instructed by an experienced route setter who can supply safe instruction. Beginners should not begin bolting their own lines until they are well schooled.
8. Use only good quality hardware manufactured by reputable companies such as Metolius and Fixe. Home hardware will not be allowed.
9. Do not crowd routes. There should be a minimumof 10 ft between route lines. The only exception to this is a variation to an existing route.
10. Avoid obscene or offensive route names.
11. Once route is approved, installed, and opened, please inform committee of its name, rating, and first ascent so that it may be entered into the next guide.
Bolts and Their Placements:
1. Use 1/2" X 3-3/4" or 4" Rawl 5 piece Expansion Bolts
2. If you encounter placing a "spinner" bolt, please spend the time to remove it. At the very least remove the bolt itself. If necessary chop it with a cold chisel. Do not leave it behind with tape or any other marking.
3. Do not place bolts or anchors on to detached blocks, or areas of rock that have cracks or seams. Unless they are of such a large size or shape to be SURE they will not move under great force.
4. Check your chosen drill spot with your hammer. Make sure it is solid rock, and chip away the patina (the gray surface) to make the hanger sit correctly and flush. Use protective eyewear when hammering rock.
5. When setting clip hangers, be sure to direct the line of stress straight down toward the gravity line. This is the line between the center of the bolt hole and the bottom point of the hanger opening.
6. No Runouts! Bolts need to be placed at reasonable distances, but don't overbolt either.
7. There must not be a potential for ground falls! Place your first clip point early and often.
8. Guard against falls onto ledges.
9. Guard against pulling slack at difficult clip stances.
10. Be considerate of shorter climbers. Clips that are at chest or head level are prefered. Don't force climbers to make a move, or pull slack that will place them in a bad fall.
11. Bolt lines should finish at obvious cliff top. Do not place anchors part way up the wall. If you can't climb the top of the wall for the route you should consider leaving it for someone else. Or bolt entire line and leave it an open project, or red tag your first bolt if you want to reserve the first ascent.
Anchors:
1. Create 2 bolt rap anchors using 3/8" Screw Link (tightened with a wrench) with either a 3 or 5 piece 3/8" chain (X2 for each side of anchor) mounted on a hanger. Do not use even number of chain links. Or, consider using Fixe Ring Anchors. Do not use webbing, single bolt anchor, or washers and chain directly on a bolt.
2. Do not use Cold Shuts or Lap Links
3. When setting hangers for your anchor be sure to direct the line of stress toward the point where the two chains will meet. They should not point straight down as for a clip hanger.
4. If placing hangers above a lip, or top ledge, be sure to dtermine where the chains will stress on the edge of the lip or ledge. The screw link should be abolve this point if possible to allow only the first couple of links of the chain to lay on this stress point. Be sure end link is free of this point. Do not place entire anchor on top of a ledge, which would require pulling a rope over the edge.
5. Project anchors will be respected for a reasonable length of time. After 1 year project anchors will be determined as Open.
Traditional Routes:
Any route line that can be SAFELY protected with natural protection must be left unbolted on the route itself. Please install a Rap Anchor at the TOP of any such route. Please clean the route of potential rock fall and plant matter before attempting any on-site leads.
Feel free to comment and communicate with the CAC members.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
For now they are only suggestions. We are interested in public input. These recommendations have not yet been discussed by the CAC. We will have another meeting on July 10th. Be sure to check out the CAC forum on www.thered.org to stay current.
"Those iron spikes you use have shortened the life expectancy of the Totem Pole by 50,000 years."
--A Navaho elder
--A Navaho elder
-
Horatio Felacio
- Posts: 3338
- Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm