Route names/grades at Roadside

[Jeff]

So when's the McDonalds going in?

[the lurkist]

Whoa, now. It has to be wheel chair accessible first.

of course i don't like anyone in a wheel chair. they are a real burden on society.

[Johnny]

I'd need to check it out again, but I thought there was a chance to block the super-direct approach to RA (up the blocky ledges) and go about 30 feet beyond this and make a trail that angles back to RA (through the existing deadfalls). This way we can have a gentle trail approaching 5 Finger and reconnecting near RA so one could head over to AWOL. If this alternative isn't too far out of the way, and is easy, then the super-direct approach wouldn't be used.

[Hefe]

Altered Scale a some VERY spooky looking anchors. I climbed it for the first time Sunday and there is a sizeable crack that runs right through the anchors. It does not look safe to me at all and I am sure tht crack will only get bigger with the winter's freeze/thaw cycle. The third bolt above the main anchors was of little comfort. I think thease things need to be relocated. Has anyone else noticed them?

[tomdarch]

... If this alternative isn't too far out of the way, and is easy, then the super-direct approach wouldn't be used.

By the time I wheeze my way to the top of the trail, the 'direct' would have to look pretty damn unappealing for me to not follow habit and claw my way up it. Also, the alternates would need to be clear to either side. (And, yes, it seems to me that alternates to either side would be needed)

[Johnny]

Yeah Hefe, that crack happened when I tightened the second anchor. Perhaps I torqued it a bit too much. I'm not sure the crack is that significant. It might just be the surface rock actually cracking. That's why I went back and put in a third anchor. Seemed safe to me, but I rap off water bottles and people think that might be dangerous.
The problem you have it that if you want anchors at the level they are (which I did so you would have to do the final moves of that route) then the rock will be softer. I think the bolts were placed on roughly the same horizontal strata of rock, creating a stress line along it. I now am more careful in soft rock to put the bolts in different planes to help prevent that, and I make sure not to tighten them too much. I suppose an argument for glue-ins could be made. Last time I was there, the crack was about as thin as a business card. If it has actually increased in size, I'd probably try to move them.

[deleted username]

Johnny, don't worry about. Not every route can be like Shaggy... damn that's a fine line!

[Johnny]

Thanks JB. It surprises me how many good climbers say that.