So what every happend with eurika?

Post by **Rain Man** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 6:20 pm

hotkarl wrote: Sorry to return to the original topic.

Now THAT was funny.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 9:32 pm

Dang! Now someone has to think of something to stir the crap and get eveyone off topic again.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:44 pm

ynot wrote:Dang! Now someone has to think of something to stir the crap and get eveyone off topic again.

Trad sucks and I would rather climb in a gym than in the red during the summer.

True.

Wes

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Jun 14, 2004 11:50 pm

if Eureka has been re-equipped, I know for a fact that the bolt chopper will be back out there in a few days.

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 4:10 am

Back to Caspian's post... Adding a bolt to an X-rated trad route might be a good idea in some cases. However, that person should definitely consult the first ascentionist for permission. If the first ascentionist agrees then I don't see a problem with it. However, it should be noted for historical reference that the FA was done as an X-rated trad route. Besides future climbers are not required to clip that bolt. Nobody is going to force them to clip it. They can still climb the route in the same style by choosing not to clip the bolt. They can then spray about it later.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 4:17 am

J-Rock wrote:Besides future climbs are not required to clip that bolt. Nobody is going to force them to clip it. They can still climb the route in the same style by choosing not to clip the bolt.

Nope, that kinda takes the commitmet out of the route, IE you can clip the bolt rather then do it in the X rated style. Kinda like soloing with gear and a belay - you can place gear if you get scared, so you are not fully commiting.

That said, I agree that there might be a few routes that could be retro (like pulling pockets was). However, I strongly believe that there should be R/X rated routes out there for people who choose to test those limits.

Wes

Post by **J-Rock** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 4:31 am

Yeah, I see your point. They could get scared and clip the bolt, but then they couldn't say they did it in the same style. However, if they did not clip the bolt then they did do it in the same style. Although just knowing that the bolt is there might reduce the commitment factor since they have the option of doing it as a safe route or a dangerous route. Hmm... Then perhaps it really isn't in the same style? In this case they must have the determination not to use it. I agree that there should be R/X rated routes for those who choose to test their limits. Well, I'm getting sleepy and not making much sense now. Time for bed...

Post by **ynot** » Tue Jun 15, 2004 9:58 pm

Anyone puts another bolt on Cavers and I'll personally go chop it.

Post by **RTimm** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 2:05 am

Can you bolt kings also make sure to put extra bolts on climbs like Fox Fire and Bedtime because I had a bad experience trying to make an anchor for my bivy. Those routes can take all day if not more. Hanging my ledge off 2"X4"s jammed in the second pitch of Bedtime was a little too nerve-racking. However, I am proud of myself for being able to wake-up the next morning and climb the last fifteen feet only placing 8 pieces!

Post by **dipsi** » Mon Jun 21, 2004 2:15 am

Or, Ynot, you could just stand on the first ledge of Cavers and throw all your gear down on everybody!