Leading trad

Post by **Hefe** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 10:32 pm

HEy JB, are you suggestin 5 finger discount is a soft 8?

As far as your abilities go, That move on that 10a sport rount is no less than 10d. Besides, I am sure you were having Daydreams of climbing that exceptional route, Shaggy. you could not concentrate on the move....it's understandable

Post by **rhino** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 11:04 pm

Hefe is probably right JB. Thinking about Shaggy always blows my cocentration when I am climbing other routes. That climb is truely a classic. I just can't stop thinking about the moves.

Post by **chester** » Thu Dec 05, 2002 11:33 pm

man, i love that route...shaggy is enough to make me switch to sport

Post by **no grain** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 4:30 am

What is this 'Shaggy' route all about. I really like climbing excellent routes. Can someone fill me in on its location?

Post by **Danny** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 6:02 am

Dude if you want to start climbing harder stuff then do it. But if you have to ask us if it's OK it probably isn't. If you lead some hard trad right off the bat then good for you! Keep cranking and spraying.

Post by **Legion** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 6:09 am

You mean Shaggy has bolts on it again? Bullshit. Shaggy is an awesome awesome line - it needs to be preserved as such, not as some sporto amusement park ride. The first ascent was on gear and there is bomber gear all the way up it - there is no reason it needs bolts. I'll chop it myself next week if someone hasn't gotten to it already.

Post by **deleted username** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 3:35 pm

I don't care if it has bolts or gear, it's quality defies a star rating!!

Thanks Hefe and Rhino for the perspective. I even remember pulling on the crimp on Chocolate Waterfall thinking, man, if only my first bolted route could have been of the same quality as Shaggy... if only I had had the same vision as Johnny to find a line so clean, so astehtic, with such rock quality. I just couldn't face my own route again.

Post by **rhino** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 4:21 pm

Don't be so hard on yourself JB. Johnny has been bolting routes for years.
You will get better with time.

Post by **Steve** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 7:21 pm

Its ok JB, you were still on a 'high' from flashing Shaggy. I can't wait for it to warm up so I can get back on that wonderful line.

Post by cc » Sat Dec 07, 2002 1:23 am

Horatio if i wanted to spray about what a bad ass trad climber i am i would i would just hide behind some bullshit. It sounds to me like your the one with complex. I'm sorry if i offend your small climbing limit. I'll know not to ask your opinion if i want some honest climbing advice. Thanks for nothing. As for the rest of you that had something helpful to say thank you for your imput.