Beta for Disappearer at Global Village

Post by **Cromlech** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 9:49 pm

Can someone give me some beta for Disappearer at Global Village?

I could not find a way to get to the 3rd bolt.

I was trying to crank for a left hand jug off a quarter pad crimp on my right hand. My left foot was on a small nub and my right foot in a good toe jam.

The picture in the on-line guide book shows a climber on the left hand jug, i.e. having completed the move I can't do.

Am I missing something?
Do I really have to throw for the jug off the right hand crimp?
Is this the crux move?

Any advice would be appreciated. I am determined to redpoint Disappearer next time I get down to RRG. Some Beta and/or crimp training is my only hope to get this move.

Thanks in advance,

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 10:08 pm

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... isappearer

Post by **Cromlech** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 10:35 pm

Thank you, I should have thought to do a search before I asked.

I am glad I am not the only one who needed beta for the move. I'll give it another try!

Thanks for the quick response,

Post by **Andrew** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 10:54 pm

I have much better/easier beta. Grab the undercling with your right hand, stand on the good feet and then reach up and grab the jug. The route goes at about 10c. Trust me this beta works perfect.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 11:06 pm

Yup, and before you do all that, make sure you're 6'6"... you're such a punk, Andrew.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 11:59 pm

Yasmeen the Messiah of Trad Climbing because She Cleaned Traditional House wrote:oh look at me! my name is yasmeen and i sent the two hardest trad routes in the gorge this weekend because i'm a big gay homo in love with a bearded man. i'm sooo cool now that i can diss on "sport climbing" and "beta". i fucking represent.

you're a bitch yasmeen

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:03 am

Horatio Felacio wrote:
Yasmeen the Messiah of Trad Climbing because She Cleaned Traditional House wrote:oh look at me! my name is yasmeen and i sent the two hardest trad routes in the gorge this weekend because i'm a big gay homo in love with a bearded man. i'm sooo cool now that i can diss on "sport climbing" and "beta". i fucking represent.
teach me how to be like you, yasmeen

Fuck you, Ho. I don't have time for little pissants like you anymore. Can't you see that I'm fucking royalty now that I've sent two routes after working them on toprope before I ever lead them and using beta from climbers 10 times better than me and gear I don't even own?? Don't talk to me. Ever again.

Post by **The Pirate** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 9:03 am

I smell booty...

Post by **spuzo** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 12:49 pm

Really Pirate....where might your nose be...hmmmmm? haha

Post by **SikMonkey** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 3:42 pm

The beta for Disappearer is all in the footwork.

Mj