What is a redpoint?

Post by **Zspider** » Mon May 31, 2004 9:00 pm

I just started back into climbing after a few years off. I notice the site here has a place to log one's redpoints. I figure I want to log them as I do them now, and not try and take credit for stuff I done years ago.

But my question is what is a redpoint?

Is it a redpoint if the draws are already hanging on the route? And if I stickclip the first draw, does that automatically negate a redpoint? A long time ago a very conservative interpretation of redpoint was that you had to hang the draws on the way up, but I don't think that's the case anymore, is it?

I do NOT want to start a big fight over this. I assume there will be different interpretations. But I've been gone for a few years and I imagine things have evolved somewhat. I just want to get a warm fuzzy consensus on what passes for a redpoint. I darn well plan on stick clipping a few cuz I'm a gutless hog and I wanna know if I can call that a redpoint, and also the issue with the draws already hanging.

Thanks, ZSpider

Post by **young'n climber** » Mon May 31, 2004 9:33 pm

A redpoint is climbing a route without falling, its as simple as that.

Post by **spuzo** » Mon May 31, 2004 10:13 pm

Lay down . its not worth the fight. Go peruse the inventory of threads and you will see this topic has been beaten to death.Unless you are Chris Sharma or Dave Graham. Your little bullshit ascent of /insert low grade route that has been sent a thousand times here/ no one care but you.... so congratulations!!! You are a climber!!and a nobody....sorry.

Post by **Zspider** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 12:30 am

Ah! I was wrong! The site says "climbed this route cleanly," and then with a check box for on lead or not. I will assume a stick clip on the first one is acceptable unless there's a consensus that that's not so.

ZSpider

Post by **Danny** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 12:46 am

I'd say that most people would consider it a "send on lead" if they stick clipped the first bolt and lead a sport route on draws without falling. You can make up your own criteria though, whatever works for you. However if you check things you haven't really lead the spray police will make fun of you and call you a poser and put a funny title under your name.

Post by **tomdarch** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 4:33 am

Play the game by your own rules. After all, isn't this about having fun? Some people really enjoy toproping. Others enjoy X trad at their limits. It's your game, play it by your rules, as long as it doesn't impact others. (For instance, if you really enjoy chipping other people's routes, give up climbing and take up trepanation.)

Do it your way, just explain exactly what you did when someone asks.

Climber 1: "I redpointed Foobar, but the second clip is really sketchy, so I didn't bother with the first clip and stickclipped the second bolt."

Climber 2: "The whole route is that second clip! There's no point unless you expose yourself to the risk of groundfall at that clip!"

Climber 1: "That's not my idea of fun."

Post by **kato** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:10 pm

We should make an FAQ:
1. What's officially a redpoint?
2. What's better, sport or trad?
3. What's the best bourbon outside of Ky?
4. Can I bolt this crack?
5. Is the SR open?

Post by **rhunt** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:36 pm

in the mid 90's when super overhanging sport routes hit the midwest(the Red and the New), that whole pinkpoint thing sort of lost its fame. I'd love to see someone climb the madness at the lode while hanging the draws and then even better I'd love to see then try and clean in on lead.

Many(pigsteak) still try and argue that redpointing with the draws already hanging is easier thus not in the best sport climbing style, but no one cares anymore.

Personally if I get lucky and redpoint a project while hanging the draws on my first burn of the day..that makes the send feel that much more rewarding but I'll take it either way.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 3:47 pm

Heeeellll yeah Rhunt. That whole pinkpoint thing is stupid. You either:

a. 'Sent' it clean on lead and thus Redpointed it

or

b. 'Sent' it clean on TR and thus got a "Clean TR ascent"

Beyond that, you can flash or onsight and blah blah blah, but in the end there IS NO PINKPOINT!

Mj

Post by **Zspider** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 4:01 pm

Thanks, everybody! Sorry for dredging up an old topic that is probably tiresome to most.

What I gather from the posts is that most would call it a clean lead if I clip already hanging draws and also use a stick clip.

I'll be rolling down tomorrow (Wednesday) evening looking to climb Thursday and Friday. I hope the weather holds. It's beautiful out now.

Thanks again, ZSpider