Please post about climbing

Post by **kneebar** » Thu May 27, 2004 4:06 pm

Thanks Meadows, Its all about having a good time.
Nice thread, at least its about climbing not thrashing everyone for having a good time.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Thu May 27, 2004 4:28 pm

Yeah, I think onsighting Sam I Am is up there with some of the coolest moments I've had climbing... I thought I was coming off so many times... thanks for all the nice words, guys!

I've really enjoyed working Windy Corner and Synchronicity. Back in the fall I flailed all over Windy Corner, and thought there was no way I'd ever lead it. It's been really fun to get to the point where I can almost get it on lead.

Also, it was awesome to take a family I know out to Dip Wall on Sunday with Loren, and to show them a great time climbing outdoors. They had a total blast, and did really well on the stuff we put them on.

Post by **loren** » Thu May 27, 2004 4:40 pm

Yeah, I rarely get the opportunity to take inexperienced people out, but it was sooo much fun to see people getting on rock for the first time and enjoying it. It reminded me of what it was like to climb outside for the first couple of times.

Like I said earlier, that was definitely a rad lead on Sam I Am. I think that W.C. and Synchronicity will go down next try too.

By the way, has anyone ever checked out that dihedral above Fox In Locks out at Dip Wall? It's a beautiful line. I also heard that johny put up some 10+ roof out there, but had a hard time determining which it was.

Post by **Wes** » Thu May 27, 2004 4:45 pm

Pop on Top is to the left of Sam I Am (bad ass onsight for sure!) Starts in a wide thing, then out a big roof to an OW finish.

The lorax tree is another cool route out there as well.

Wes

Post by **alien2** » Thu May 27, 2004 4:50 pm

Managed to find and complete an unclimbed (didn't look climbed) ~75ft, slightly overhanging, some hands, mostly layback, sandy, big rounded flake thing, ~5.10ish, **. It doesn't top out and has no sound top anchors. Only option is to down climb

, down aid

, or climb a different route and drop a line from top and catapult the thing into you

. After completing route, rap down, have second top rope route and clean gear with a gri gri backup on the fixed line and taking the slack out as he goes. Take out the last piece, hang on if you want and prepare for a ride (big pendulum into space) because of how much the impossible top out overhangs. Used a rope protector at top for a worry free pendulum. It was worth the extra work though.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Thu May 27, 2004 7:33 pm

Onsight roped solo first ascents. Try it sometime, you'll either love it or hate it, but probably hate it. Scares me silly, but it beats climbing with a partner.

Post by **hamsco** » Thu May 27, 2004 7:34 pm

Last weekend I finally climbed the Daddy, the Mummy, and the Prow in one day (Linville Gorge NC).
It was my third attempt. No pitch is hard but you have to get lucky with weather. It was a great day.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Thu May 27, 2004 7:45 pm

The Daddy was a fine climbing experience for me.

Would like to go back and do the trio in a day.

Post by **Steve** » Thu May 27, 2004 8:18 pm

I've been wandering around the woods a lot lately, climbed a litte. What I have climbed has been new, which makes it exciting. I really enjoyed my barefoot stroll up the creek at Muir Valley with a way too full pack last weekend. Writing an explination of why I left long slings on the anchor for Bedtime still makes me chuckle. Shooting the 'Loved to Death' story on the Gorge was a good time (FYI some of the video will be used in the new center at Gladie when it is completed). Getting to boulder in a barn last night with some cool people was a good time. It seems like I haven't done much this spring, but I've really done a lot.

Post by **TradMike** » Thu May 27, 2004 8:23 pm

We did the Daddy, the Mummy and the Prow over 2 days a few years back. We camped near the Prow's top out. Had the entire place to ourselves the whole weekend. Great place to climb! The freaking rain is a big issue at Linville. Last time I did the Daddy it was thunder storming on the other side of the valley but missed us - scary. Did you head left toward the top of the Mummy for a little more excitement?