Please post about climbing

Post by **Johnny** » Wed May 26, 2004 8:28 pm

I've been lost on projects at various cracks at super secret crags. Mostly 10's or 11's with some gear or rock quality problems. Enjoyable, but they take their toll on me mentally.

I've been trying to stop just doing projects, but I can't seem to get fired up about any route I've already done. I'm too fat right now to work on harder sport and I don't have many established routes left that have any stars. Drill's broken. Sorry if it sounds like whining. I'm still very fired up about climbing. Suggestions would be great (besides "lose weight"). Any rating up to 11's.

There's a few new routes to do at Torrent for me, but I can't see going there this weekend.

I thought the Grinch was pretty good. Did you do Whoville? It was horrendously sandy and slippery when I did it.

Bonzo's cool. I've been thinking about a day at Fortress and try to climb every route there. Maybe not the R stuff or the upper deck routes.

Does anybody solo American Wall anymore?

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Wed May 26, 2004 8:29 pm

Don McGlone wrote:...Candy Corner. What a beautiful route! Very therapeutic and fun climbing.

That has to be the hardest 5.5(?) trad lead I have ever done! But you're right, it's a beautiful route! Too bad there were people waiting on us... we weren't able to climb Ye Gods and something-something....

At the Red -- the best sport route I've been on so far this year is Annie The Annihilator in Muir. This route is AWESOME! Cool moves on holds that just pop out at you... You don't see them from the ground but as you go up, there they are just when you need them!

I also did Pocket Pussy while it was wet so I'm extremely proud of that effort -- fun climb too!

somehow that doesn't sound right....

Post by **tsparks** » Wed May 26, 2004 8:32 pm

I managed to get shut down trying to go from the 3rd to the 4th bolt on Hippocrite. I could never manage to get my feet to stay on the wall well enough to really get up into the undercling. Even with that, it was a good day climbing and a fun route, that I would like to send someday.

Post by **snoopdogg** » Wed May 26, 2004 8:35 pm

Finally was able to get on Breakfast Burrito recently. I did it with no falls on my second attempt. Had problems with the route next to it though. I forget the name of it.

Post by **rhunt** » Wed May 26, 2004 8:42 pm

I scored my biggest booty find ever on Candy Corner, three draws, two hex's and a tri-cam!

squeezindlemmon...little fishes

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed May 26, 2004 8:42 pm

Hey Johnny, come check out Muir Valley for something new. There's a little bit of everything there. 8)

Post by **Spragwa** » Wed May 26, 2004 9:18 pm

I've been working on enjoying 10s and kicking back a little. For awhile I was obsessed with getting on some cool soft 11s to get my lead head going. I'm really not into working problems either...not that I was in danger of becoming a Red Point Freak.

All that being said, I am totally in love with Seek the Truth at Torrent. It's totally over my head but I love going up to the fourth bolt. Last time I was working my way up to the fifth bolt and grabbed a crappy side pull instead of a positive crimper and pitched. I won't Red Point that thing for a while but it's so dang cool and fun.

Post by **ynot** » Wed May 26, 2004 9:28 pm

I did a forgoten route that would be super cool when the crux isn't seeping wet.
It was freaky pulling through wet bulges,and I was really tempted to take.
the exposure is as good or better than anything else in the Red. 3 pitches.You can avoid the green rotten 1st pitch by starting on the left side of the pinnacle.This became obvious after I led it. Great belay ledges with a river view(sounds like I'm selling a condo) long second pitch and a balancy 3rd that is like an opposite bonzo
with an OW start.Really freaky pulling it with the trees way below you and ambulances screaming through the valley.I heard a camper fell off a cliff the night before. The topout left much to be desired. What is it you say? Check Canopy.
We finished the day on Cavers.Sort of like icing on the cake.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed May 26, 2004 9:38 pm

okay, I'll play. Good thread! I'm pretty psyched that after 6 months of no climbing with this ankle injury (and no training), I took off and put up some 5.7 trad line I'd never seen before at Pebble Beach - on my third day back to climbing! Can't recall the name, though.

The best part was getting my tape glove caught in a biner after clipping into one of my pieces.

Talk about an adreniline rush! I didn't get it clean, but it felt good to get back on that horse! As soon as my sick doggie gets better, I'll be back at it with my trusty rack.

Post by **captain static** » Wed May 26, 2004 10:07 pm

Candy Corner is an awesome route. Candy Corner, Ye Gods, Burn, Ecstasy Junior, or LSD are all great routes to take up to the next level of Seneca instead of hiking up. As far as climbing I am in an endurance mode and have been working on traversing the backside of the Eden Park Reservoir Wall. Right now I am able to traverse about 200' before the burn pumps me out.