Quality easy climbs?

Post by **Zspider** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:46 pm

I'm taking my high school age daughter down to the gorge next week. She's just now starting to do some laps on the home wall, and she is definitely not going to have a lot of hand strength when we go down next week. She needs some routes she can make it up.

I need some suggestions for some nice routes that would weigh in at 5.4 or under without being sandbagged. I have no problem with doing third and fourth class stuff, either. I would prefer the cleaner options. Easy stuff in the gorge is often a dirt slog.

Thank you, ZSpider

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:49 pm

Check the online guidebook. It's the most comprehensive compilation of information regarding recreation in this whole united nation. It has a bunch of stuff about climbs too.

Seriously though, just click on the link and you can pretty much sort through the climbs by whatever criteria you want just short of.....well, I really can't think of anything that you can't sort by.

Mj

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:51 pm

trad or sport? So long as you can lead comfortably, I think she would do fine on 5.7 or 5.8 right off the couch. At that level, hand strength doesn't matter at all. She just needs to use her feet. If you want to do some easy sport, check out Left Flank or Roadside in the online guidebook. If you want to do easy trad, I'd suggest Fortress or Dip Wall.

Post by **Zspider** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:50 pm

Thank you for the suggestions, Sik and Sandy. We'll probably end up at Fortress Wall, but I was thinking that there were some nice 3rd and 4th class routes around. Courthouse Rock comes to mind. I can look in the guide book but I was looking to hear feedback from warm bodies. I also thought that maybe there would be some suggestions for some quality 3rd and 4th class that aren't in the guidebook.

I'll be honest, Sandy. I considered the easy 5.7 bolt routes and I don't think they are within her range. I'm even concerned that something down in the 5.4 range, like American Crack, might be a struggle. I really don't think the start on American Crack is 5.4, and the idea of putting her on something that I have told her was easy and then her not being able to make it up is not gonna be a good experience. I haven't seen what the grades are now, but I remember years ago doing the wicked wallow up The Mighty Eidson and wondering about the 5.4 grade on it. For that matter, I remember walking out Princess Arch way and rapping in and doing that wicked-assed 5.4.

My experience with 5.4s in the gorge is that they are rated overall and not for the hardest move. Practically speaking, that means if you can't crank a 5.7 or 5.8 move, you ain't gonna top out. This is not a complaint about the grading system, just a realization that I need to scale down what we attempt. I have seen what Amber is pulling on our wall and at Hoosier Heights, and I would hesitate to put her on anything with harder than a 5.4 move right now. I might be underestimating her ability, but I feel more comfortable underestimating than overestimating. If she cruises everything easily, she will be happy. If she struggles on everything, she will be discouraged.

It's a shame that Seneca Rocks is so far off, or else we'd go there and climb on beautiful, exciting, and exposed 5.0 and 5.2. We will make it there eventually but I don't want to go there until I know she is tough enough to climb two days in a row.

Thanks again, ZSpider

Post by **SCIN** » Tue May 25, 2004 5:22 pm

I usually take people like that to D-Boone Hut Crag and put them on Green Corner. It's probably the easiest trad route in the Red.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue May 25, 2004 5:44 pm

Zspider it's so cool that you are getting your daughter out climbing! Maybe the slabs at Roadside would be a good idea? My 9 year old walks them and I think they can be very confidence inspiring. It also won't be grungy like what you're thinking of doing. The only downer is the lines, but maybe she'll like the social aspects of climbing? Whatever you do, have a great time!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue May 25, 2004 5:52 pm

Yeah, the stuff out at Roadside is a classic starting point for MANY climbers of all skill levels. Also, there is that little super easy crack just to the right of C Sharp B Flat that finishes on the same anchors. It looks like a class 4 if you ask me.

Mj

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Tue May 25, 2004 6:08 pm

Zspider wrote:I might be underestimating her ability, but I feel more comfortable underestimating than overestimating. If she cruises everything easily, she will be happy. If she struggles on everything, she will be discouraged.

Z, last summer, I took my younger siblings camping and climbing at Rumbling Bald in NC. Now, from what I hear, NC routes are usually old school ratings. My little brother who is barely 4'5" has a little problem with his left hand -- he can't control too much of the motion and can't keep it straight. Nevertheless, he was able to struggle his way up a 5.5R and although he didn't make it but a third of the way up a 5.7 finger crack, he had a great time. And so did my younger sister. Just being outside was a great experience, even in the high heat and humidity of July.

If your daughter knows the grade of the route, that might give her a better perspective of her accomplishments. It might not be good to have her cruise several routes only to learn later on that they were mere 4th class, etc. But then again, I myself don't really care much for ratings.

Either way, just have fun!

Post by **ynot** » Tue May 25, 2004 9:53 pm

Theres a 4th or 5th class at Half Moon, and another at Princess arch.They are close together. Then you could walk out to the overlook at Chimney top.Would be a good day for the greenest gumby.

Post by **Spragwa** » Tue May 25, 2004 11:37 pm

ZSpider, I put my 11-year-old neice on C Sharp or B Flat and she cruised it her first time. She didn't flash it but she had a lot of success. My 15-year-old nephew (they're now 12 and 16) didn't have such an easy time of it though. I think girls might instinctively use their feet more because we don't have the upper body strength right off the bat. Your girl will do great! Have a fantastic time.