First Pitch Anchors for Roadside

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed May 19, 2004 4:02 pm

Meadows, climb this uber classic route the right way - in one pitch - and you will see that no one should be rapping from the tree and that anchors are not needed on the ledge. If people insist on rapping from the tree and the tree pulls, let's just be thankful Roadside isn't on FS property.

Maybe I can add a line in the guidebook? "Do Not Rap from the Tree! Duh."

Post by **captain static** » Wed May 19, 2004 5:21 pm

This just added to comments:

Hey gumby, this is a one pitch climb, the tree at the ledge is good for natural pro but please don't bail by rapping off it. If you have to bail, leave gear and save the tree. If your lucky maybee you can find somebody that can do the route for you, retrieve you gear, and then set up a TR for your sorry REAR.

Post by **GWG** » Wed May 19, 2004 7:01 pm

I can't wait to meet some of you guys. You must be absolute awesome climbers.

Well, I'll bet you climbed from your mamma's womb able to on-site 5.11C at least. All your worldly climbing knowledge is inherent and God forbid if anyone were to ever have a different opinion than yours' on a topic.

I guess one thing I'm thankful for this forum for is that it provides great comic relief in an otherwise stressful day. Thanks for the laughs!

Post by **Don McGlone** » Wed May 19, 2004 7:12 pm

Is Greg Smith still alive? How about Ron Snider?

Post by **Meadows** » Wed May 19, 2004 9:38 pm

Sandy, Um, I'm not in the argument just saying that if people are rapping from it, maybe a note should be added.

Post by **gulliver** » Wed May 19, 2004 9:47 pm

I was with both of them there two summers ago , but we didn't get on r.a. There
was a bit of reminiscing(sp?) about it being a solo route while waiting for the guys to show up. I don't think it needs bolts. It will be hard to save the tree, but maybe this should just fall into the category where most climbing guides have a blanket statement regarding types of impact that should be limited and being a good steward . It's hard to save the rock , the trees, and some of us from ourselves.
Ron's still out there, you probably have climbed next to him. very quiet and unassuming.

Post by **J-Rock** » Wed May 19, 2004 11:14 pm

Those who lead trad should be experienced enough to use sound judgment regarding what makes a safe or unsafe anchor. If they are not able to complete a 5.7 then perhaps they should begin leading at a lower grade or gain some experience following a skilled leader and work their way up to it.

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon May 24, 2004 5:21 pm

Pull the bolts at the almost top and actually top it out like the way the route was originally done- who wants the hangers?

Post by **rhunt** » Mon May 24, 2004 5:42 pm

isn't there a note in the guide book to NOT top out at Roadside because the people that own the land on top don't want climbers on their land.

Oh but who reads guide books...

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Mon May 24, 2004 5:54 pm

Never read that note. You must have been looking at the New River Gorge guidebook.