First Pitch Anchors for Roadside

Post by **rhunt** » Tue May 18, 2004 7:43 pm

god forbid we drill one more hole in the rock at the red and esp on a precious trad line!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue May 18, 2004 7:56 pm

why do you feel the need to bring this climb down to the lowest common denominator? As much of a tree hugger as I tend to be, I'd rather see the tree cut down if it becomes unsafe for rapping than to see anchors put on that ledge. If someone can't finish that route, then someone else will get their booty. Tough for them. By your reasoning, all cracks should be bolted "for the safety of the newbies."

Post by **rhunt** » Tue May 18, 2004 8:11 pm

Sandy wrote:why do you feel the need to bring this climb down to the lowest common denominator? As much of a tree hugger as I tend to be, I'd rather see the tree cut down if it becomes unsafe for rapping than to see anchors put on that ledge. If someone can't finish that route, then someone else will get their booty. Tough for them. By your reasoning, all cracks should be bolted "for the safety of the newbies."

Sandy, we're talking about an anchor not a bolt to protect the climbing.

By your reasoning we should litter the cliffs with slings and gear and spare the rock one or two more holes.

Do I really think it needs a new lower set of anchors...no.

but it would have been nice if someone give KD a real answer instead of a bunch of bull shit but I guess that's not what this web page is for.

Post by **Legion** » Tue May 18, 2004 8:25 pm

How signs on the trees explaining the situation? Something like "Rapping off trees prohibited. Suck it up and climb to the anchors or surrender your booty."

Post by **Artsay** » Tue May 18, 2004 8:27 pm

I've used that tree before and I think it's obvious others do too. I don't think there's anything wrong with KD's idea. I mean, the anchor would definitely save that tree and wouldn't be an eye sore like webbing is; Two bolts on the ledge is all it would take. Sure, you can do the route in one pitch but I would bank that most don't, given the grade of the route and the level of climber that grade usually attracts.

Do I think it'll ever get bolt anchors? Nope...but I don't think there's anything wrong with thinking it could use them.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Tue May 18, 2004 8:46 pm

I'll chop the bolts if I see them there. If the tree is really unsafe then it should go. The last thing we need is to make that climb more accessible to gumbies. Have you noticed the erosion at the base lately. Give it enough time and you'd need to put anchors on the first ledge just to be able to get down in two rappels with one rope.

The best solution is to leave the tree, don't place any anchors and let natural selection take its course.

Post by **Bruisebrother** » Tue May 18, 2004 9:46 pm

It's a Trad line! Nough said. Maybe the FA'er and property owner should be consulted! Then let the Wicked One prevail!

Post by **ynot** » Tue May 18, 2004 9:57 pm

I can think of several better places to put good bolts. I am fine with it either way.
There arent that many quality routes below 5.8. It's no suprise that roadside is impacted.

Post by KD » Wed May 19, 2004 1:57 am

I guess it was a dumb idea then - I still feel sorry for the tree though.

Post by **jstokes** » Wed May 19, 2004 2:59 am

I see KD point about the poor tree, but quality of the route would be lost if bolts where placed just for people to bail.