Anchor placement for Lunatic Fringe

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
hamsco
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 1:16 am

Anchor placement for Lunatic Fringe

Post by hamsco »

I climbed this route over the weekend, and enjoyed it alot.
But I was wondering....

The anchors I used were positioned over the now choped route Daydreams and Nightmares. Flying Brian put up that route in 92. What was the decent before those anchors were put in (ie 84 thru 92).??

In John's guide under Daydreams it says "Shun the poorly placed anchors at the ledge and find another way down"

On the online guide there are some comments about the anchor placement (on L. Fringe) with two different opinions.

Would anyone mind if I moved them over on top of L. Fringe, to save a second from the swing. Or maybe just put in new anchors.

Granted I would keep them high enough on the ledge to keep the runout and the R rating.

Hey Grant...if you read this what do you think, being the FA and such.
User avatar
SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

I think it's a great idea to move them over the top. It's kind of silly where they are now and it sucks for whoever follows especially if they're not a solid climber.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
Wes
Posts: 6530
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 3:46 pm

Post by Wes »

Yep, moving them (or adding new ones) would only make the route better, without taking any of the adventure away. If you drag a drill up there, then maybe check the anchors on close to the edge and astoflex as well.

Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

I like the idea. Use a hand drill though. Wink wink.

If the 2nd isn't solid then they could take a really cool swinging whipper.

Close to the Edge has a couple better bolts but it needs to be cleaned up.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
User avatar
ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

Does anyone know if the crack above Star Bellied Sneeches has been done?
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

Yep, its called the Lorax Tree 5.8+. Hampton and someone else did it a few years ago.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
User avatar
ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

Nope .Lorax tree is left of it.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
JB
Posts: 1228
Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2003 8:36 pm

Post by JB »

Nope, Lorax starts left, then continues above.
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

Right.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

No. your other right.
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
Post Reply