Eureka chopped again!

[young'n climber]

You think im joking?

[marathonmedic]

We climbed Eureka on Sunday and it wasn't chopped. I'm glad we got on it when we did since it's a great little climb and even has some great places to practice lead falls. That really sucks that some lowlife would take it upon themselves to decide for the world that the bolts shouldn't be on there. What the fuck? There are a TON of easy trad leads at the Red for traddies to learn on and play on but there really aren't that many easy sport routes. My search just turned up _349_ trad routes between 5.0 and 5.9 and only 30 sport routes in that range. If you can't share the rock then just don't show up at all. Nobody makes you clip bolts. Choppers should be banned.

[KD]

yeah but the difficulty of those 350 or so trad routes is a bit harder than the sport. to me, a 5.6 trad route is as physical and mentally challenging as a 5.10 sport route - grades were tighter when most trad routes were put up and lugging the weight of a rack and trusting the pro/rock add up. Both are about the entry level for climbers. The low impact ethic is meant to protect the ecology of climbing areas not the climbers on routes. We shouldn't bolt up trad lines just to make easy sport routes for new climbers.

[marathonmedic]

I agree with the ecology aspect, but there is also the simple issue of access. There just aren't that many places for beginners to sport climb and if you start getting rid of the few routes that are left, the others will see even more traffic. When you get down to it, you can probably lead most of the easy sport routes (like Mr. Bungle) on trad as well. Does that mean that it should be chopped, too? A lot of routes can be led as trad and if you want to do it that way then feel free, but just because it can be done as trad doesn't mean it should be hacked so only traddies can climb them. A new climber shouldn't have to invest $1000 and find someone to apprentice under just so they can get into the sport. There are tons of trad only climbs out there without a single sport route in sight on them for people who want to avoid sport climbers. I think it's an access issue. There simply isn't that much out there for beginner sport climbers and when something gets chopped, it's going to crowd beginners onto the few routes that are left and get people complaining about overuse all over again.

[Christian]

yeah but the difficulty of those 350 or so trad routes is a bit harder than the sport. to me, a 5.6 trad route is as physical and mentally challenging as a 5.10 sport route - grades were tighter when most trad routes were put up and lugging the weight of a rack and trusting the pro/rock add up. Both are about the entry level for climbers. The low impact ethic is meant to protect the ecology of climbing areas not the climbers on routes. We shouldn't bolt up trad lines just to make easy sport routes for new climbers.

Suddenly, I realized I am a better climber than I thought. I thought leading on trad was kind of challenging. thanks man. I can love myself again. 8)

[superjen]

Bolts just fall out all the time, the world is an imperfect place!

AWESOME, awesome movie!!! I am lol at work! Plus, Judd Nelson gets the bling bling at the end.

[KD]

your welcome

[superjen]

but actually, it's SCREW, not a bolt, still though, great movie....

[ynot]

I don't agree, M Medic. Maybe beginners should have to invest some dough and learn from a seasoned climber. Then It wouldnt be so crowded with backclipping gumbies . Buying a rack just shows that you are commited to climbing. None of that weekend sport climbing tourist BS.like annoying dogs,litter,and route hogging.
It has crossed lots of bolters minds to put up a bunch of easy lines,someone did and thats exactly what you find every weekend there.

[jefflehmkuhl]

I might have to invest in a more complete trad rack(more than my #1 BD stopper ) and start placing my own gear on all the sport routes