Gear Failure

Post by **Sunshine** » Thu May 06, 2004 7:11 pm

Someone told me Tori Allen was responsible for the ARI in the Red.
No lie.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu May 06, 2004 7:12 pm

the lurkist wrote:Oh really? What org would that be?

Not only the RED specifically.... although the RRGCC does have CAC Committees that are supposedly taking care of this (Fixed Anchor Replacement Committee, Safety and Ethics Committee and Development and Review Committee).

In other places like the Flatirons, they have their own local org (Open Space and Mountain Parks - FAR used to be done by FCC).... then there's also the ASCA......

Post by **rhunt** » Thu May 06, 2004 7:15 pm

My friend Mike broke the first bolt of pocket pussy years ago before Mark owned Torrent. He took on the bolt and as soon as he weighted it..it blew out. He landed on his back on that ledge with his shouldering hanging over the edge but he didn't fall off! Not sure what happened but I hear the bolt was over torqued in the hole which cause it to shear off. He keeps the bolt head and hanger in a case at home!

Post by **Crankmas** » Thu May 06, 2004 7:25 pm

Zeb's well documented bolt failure on Sand, personally I have had a rope cut half through due to poor draw selection so I blama myself. Eons ago I meet some dudes and one decked out of Salad Days on Tower when several ( over 3 ) older rigid Friends zipped. Equipment failure usually starts between the ears.

Post by **TradMike** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:15 pm

I was climbing on Pulling Pockets the day the bolt was pulled on Sand and heard most of the ruckus. He stopped really close to the ground. Saw rock blow out on a small cam on Rock Wars - climber decked. Saw someone zipper two hexes and a nut at Endless wall in the New which resulted in a 40 footer - probably poor placements - climber fine. I personally had the #5 slide a foot or so on a fall but it grabbed - probably too sandy. And last but not least had my rope cut half through on Courthouse Rock trying something stupid.

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:17 pm

TradMike wrote:And last but not least had my rope cut half through on Courthouse Rock trying something stupid.

that's not gear failure! that's user error!

Post by **rhunt** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:18 pm

personally I've been sport climbing and bouldering(plus a little trad in the early days) for nearly 10 years and I have never had any gear fail.

but you know what they say...'Sport Climbing is Neither'

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu May 06, 2004 8:21 pm

rhunt, thanks for the new material....

gear failure in bouldering? what, have a hangnail catch on some mad sloperz brah?

same with sport climbing....sport climbing is as sterile as "sports" can get...except for field hockey...

go ride a bull if you want a real sport...

Post by **Caspian** » Fri May 07, 2004 12:41 am

This one guy at my work...dont know if its the same mike that rhunt is talking about....he took or fell at the first bolt, the hanger snap and he hit the ground. I think it was at Phantasia somewhere though.

Post by **marathonmedic** » Fri May 07, 2004 3:11 am

Anybody know anything about how hanging in the elements for a summer affects the reliability of quickdraws?