Route hogging....

Post by **Artsay** » Thu May 06, 2004 1:52 pm

Climbing is a beautiful feeling to me....the movement, the flow of the route...

But when I'm working hard, pushing my physical limits, tired, pumped, feel like I'm going to fall at any moment...but then push through it and send the route - man, that feels just awesome.

For some people running is just hard and painful. For others it's fun and rewarding. It depends how each individual defines fun.

I don't think it's right to say that folks who train to climb hard are doing it for the wrong reasons just like I don't think it's right to say that folks who never push their limits aren't getting the most out of climbing.

If it makes you feel good then you're doing it for the right reasons.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 06, 2004 1:54 pm

Artsay, I want to be just like you when I grow up!

Post by **Artsay** » Thu May 06, 2004 2:20 pm

Then you better start eating a LOT of chocolate, consuming barrels of Sterling Merlot, and watch a ton of reality TV.

Post by **superjen** » Thu May 06, 2004 2:34 pm

I can definetely follow the chocolate and Merlot regimine, and if that is what makes women great athletes, I'm THERE! 8)

Post by **captain static** » Thu May 06, 2004 3:31 pm

Pianomahn has tweaked one of my pet peeves about some gumbies who jump into leading before they have learned how to climb. When I speak of learning how to climb, I don't mean the technical aspect, I mean the physical aspect. Climbing is all about memorized movement. When we don't have to think about moves is when we flow over the rock and get the most enjoyment. There are a few that can flow naturally the first time they touch stone. For most flow comes with repeated practice. I have observed more than a few beginning climbers jump into leading and struggle up the rock. In my opinion they would be better off practicing on TR, improving their strength and technique, and then coming back to leading when they have become more proficient. Then maybee they wouldn't be hogging and/or hangdogging at the crag?

P.S. Last fall I had a most enjoyable experience climbing the 3rd Flatiron on a beautiful, cloudless, day in Boulder. So I wouldn't say that I am all about training.

Post by **rhunt** » Thu May 06, 2004 3:50 pm

captain static wrote:I have observed more than a few beginning climbers jump into leading and struggle up the rock. In my opinion they would be better off practicing on TR, improving their strength and technique, and then coming back to leading when they have become more proficient.

Captain I couldn't agree more! There is this attitude out there and esp. on this board that top roping is weak and bad and that attitude pressures new climbers to start leading WAY before he or she is ready. Sure leading is cool and it something that most climbers aspire to but there needs to be a base level of fitness and technique before people start jumping on the sharp end...even on easy sport routes. I think this why so many new climbers are getting hurt.

And just because you can lead the "red taped' route and the gym doesn't mean you ready for 5.10's at the Red.

To all new and aspiring lead climbers out there: If you want to get better at leading and climbing..practice...find an experienced leader out there and spend a couple of weekends top roping climbs beyond your limit... and throw in a coupe of leads WELL below your limit...that's how you get better.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu May 06, 2004 3:59 pm

work doesn't equal fun? boy I feel sorry for you folks then..since we spend a third of our life "working", you better learn to enjoy your work, or get a dfferent job,....or use escapism like many climbers, and move state to state to state in search of the elusive holy grail...

training to climb harder is no more right or wrong than being a lazy ass dope smoking chuffer who thinkg V2 is cool...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu May 06, 2004 4:14 pm

when I first discovered ClimbKY.com, I got a heaping of grief (mostly from Wes, hehe) about not having any desire to lead. I was happy with top-roping and really didn't care what other people thought about it. Now I love being on the sharp end, but am happy top-roping as well. It's all climbing, ferdogsake.

I agree that people should be patient about leading. On the other hand, even accomplished climbers hang-dog sometimes. If you're never struggling up a route, you aren't pushing your limits. So long as people are considerate of others, I don't think there is a right or wrong way to go about climbing. It's an individual pursuit, and climbing to meet someone else's ideal should never be a factor.

Post by **rhunt** » Thu May 06, 2004 4:16 pm

Thanks for the new material Piggie

Post by **tsparks** » Thu May 06, 2004 4:17 pm

How is someone supposed to get a route on TR without leading it? It would be nice if there were experienced climbers at every crag to put ropes up for new climbers, but let's be honest, there isn't. I would bet that most new climbers are just a group of friends that wanted to try climbing, bought the equipment, then headed out the the crag. Once they're there they find the easiest route on the wall and give it a go.

Sure this might not be the safest way to learn, but it is the reality for most of us, and often creates long lines for the easy climbs.