Safe crag belaying? Dry routes?

Post by **philip171** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 6:41 pm

We are about to head to the red tomarrow, looks like bad weather, I know there is a post above this on dry crags, but what about routes? I can red point 5.7 sport, and top rope 5.10d, I have done C sharp on road side, thinking about dream of the bee and the one next to it to the right (slab, both 5.8, I have top roped them before) at torrent, and maybe eureka at global, never done it before, and maybe no boze as a warm up. How ever if its starts spiting a little rain when we get there, are there any routes that will stay more dry then others? I hear of some people talking about torrent being good in the rain, how dry will the rock stay? Also are there any other moderat to easy leads that are overhanged or stay some what dry?

Also... any tips on lead belaying on slabs? I red pointed C sharp, but all the time I was thinking "I dont want to fall I dont want to fall...." it seems like if I took a fall I would be banging and scraping the rock on the ride down to the last bolt, any tips for the belayer? Tips on falling on slabs?
Any how,
Thanks for any advice.

Post by **young'n climber** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 7:34 pm

slab.........YUCK

Post by **Johnny** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 7:47 pm

Although C# isn't technically a slab, it is worth considering that a fall can be more dangerous. The best way to fall is with great awareness of your surroundings. Be prepared to hit the rock as you swing in from a fall (Arno says be "cat-like"). To really know, you really have to take a fall. Find a relatively safe (smooth, no ledges) slabby area. Climb up at least 4 bolts worth. Start by intentionally taking a ridiculously small fall (like 6") and work up to something reasonable--like the distance between bolts. You will get a feel quickly. Make sure you fall in control each time. If you sense you aren't under control, don't lengthen the fall, work on technique. Also practice falling at angles (work from a slight one to larger gradually) so you can get used to how your body impacts the rock.

Of course, have a damn good, experienced belayer when you work on falling. I'd certainly rather have a GriGri for it.

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 7:53 pm

good tips johnny.....also practice those falls in the gym...

Post by **Yasmeen** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 8:08 pm

philip171, the 5.11's stay dry at Torrent (well, Recoil gets wet at the anchors), and I think the 5.8 to the right of Bandolier stays dry. The slab 5.8 will not stay dry.

The 5.10 wall at Roadside will be dry, as will Up Yonder (short 5.11b), but after awhile the holds get grimy and seep a little.

I believe Eureka gets wet... I don't know that Global Village is the place you want to go if it's wet.

As for falling, just make sure your belayer jumps as you are bottoming out. I personally don't leave a belly of slack out while the leader is climbing-- I just jump at the right time. No one's ever complained of a hard catch when I use that belay technique.

Post by **loren** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 8:13 pm

Yasmeen wrote:philip171, As for falling, just make sure your belayer jumps as you are bottoming out. I personally don't leave a belly of slack out while the leader is climbing-- I just jump at the right time. No one's ever complained of a hard catch when I use that belay technique.

I don't think he needs to be worried about a hard catch on slabs.

My advice for falls on C-Sharp is this: Don't! You are right. You'll probably get banged up good. Everyone I know who has fallen on it has been scratched up at least a little, and some a lot.

Post by **kentuckysarah** » Fri Apr 30, 2004 8:44 pm

loren wrote:
My advice for falls on C-Sharp is this: Don't! You are right. You'll probably get banged up good. Everyone I know who has fallen on it has been scratched up at least a little, and some a lot.

Do not fall on slabs if at all possible. They are not fun falls at all, trust me on this. It is slab, and a 5.7, so it's not super hard...but if it's at your limit and you just started leading, it can be a bit scary. My advice is that if you are above a bolt and are really pumped and start to get sketched out, keep going up. Do not fall unless you absolutely have to

Post by **philip171** » Sat May 01, 2004 12:57 am

All right thanks! That helped, there is only one spot that really bothers me and I yell im falling about 20 times on yet I was able to reach up and clip. The rest of it was very easy, tomarrow I might try going to the right of it, also... The 3 5.9s at milatary wall, how hard are they? I forgot there names, but seems like they wouldent be to hard and maybe somthing good to take falls on.
Any how,
Thanks for any advice!