Windy Corner

Post by **spuzo** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 8:57 pm

Looking for beta for a friend of mine - what kinda gear would he need?

He's not into the 'Net so I am trying to help him out....

thanks

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 9:56 pm

I imagine you're talking about the 1st pitch since that is the most popular way of doing Windy.

I use a couple of #.75-#1 Camalots, a #2 Camalot and a #3 Camalot for the top.
Nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot and nothing smaller than a #.75 Camalot.

The top pitch is all small stuff I think.

Post by **spuzo** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 11:36 pm

thanks will pass on the info...

Post by **Wes** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 5:52 pm

I had the gear pretty wired when I did it. Here is what I remember:

First piece is a two camalot under the roof with a draw. The next one is a 3.5 camalot that you place kinda over the roof. Then unclip the first piece, this lets the rope run better. Next is a one camalot with a draw. Then a #2 friend in the bottom of the chock stone, and a .75 camalot at the top. Then a couple of one camalots (maybe a .75?) in the next section. After that, you can place 2 and 3 camalot to the anchors of the first part.

Wes

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 5:56 pm

Loren and I were just talking about this. Here's his gear beta:

2 in the roof, #1 right after, then a yellow alien behind flake, then .75 by chock-stone, another .75 before the big move to the ledge, then a #3 (probably. I use a purple metolius) and if you want a #2 above that (I don't protect there).

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 7:13 pm

man, i'm embarrased about this, but i got a #1 camalot stuck on windy corner sunday afternoon. btw yasmeen, you can pick up your cam at torrent.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:15 pm

Perfect! This way I get my cam back and I don't have to associate with you in person! Loren'll thank you, too. This way he doesn't have to place that piece on his next go. I know that placement's always cruxy for him.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Apr 26, 2004 8:32 pm

you might not want to clip it actually. see, i shoved it in lengthwise where some people place a 3.5 camalot. i didn't have one, so i used that, tied it off like a big-bro and fell on it because it's so damn hard right there. so fuck you cunt.

Post by **Pimp** » Tue Apr 27, 2004 1:34 pm

Isin't that how all cams are supposed to be placed??!
I mean I know that metolious range finder cams are supposed to be placed like that- cam heads on one side, stem on the other.

It's all the same, just don't fall.