Boulder Canyon, Colorado

Other Crags, Aid Climbing, Bouldering, etc...
smtrad
Posts: 14
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 12:28 am

Boulder Canyon, Colorado

Post by smtrad »

Hey all, just wanted some opinions on the guidebooks for Boulder Canyon. There are about four differen ones that i have found, but am unsure which to choose. Anybody own one they feel is pretty good? There is always the online guide at climbingboulder.com, but obviously can't take that with me...

Thanks.
"To become a climber is to join a self-contained, rabidly idealistic society, largely unnoticed and surprisingly uncorrupted by the world at large."
- Jon Krakauer
DaggerX

Post by DaggerX »

All the gudie books kinda suck they only take you to the popular areas. Just climbingboulder.com and print what you want.


DaggerX
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Post by pigsteak »

if it is your first trip, then any of the books will get you to the popular stuff...
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Christian
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Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

There is a real cool abandoned silver mine up the canyon a little ways where we did peyote back in the 70's and watched some guy climbing across the creek... does that help?
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
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Larry Day
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 3:30 am

Post by Larry Day »

If you've never climbed in Boulder Canyon before it may not matter that much. Just pick a book, and do the routes with lots of stars. Many great climbs on granite of outstanding quality. You'll love it!
t bone
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 10:56 pm

Post by t bone »

Check out Castle Rock, The Dome, Cob Rock And Bell Buttress for good trad.
Uncle Big Green
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 8:55 pm

Post by Uncle Big Green »

Richard Rossiter's guide isn't bad and it's pretty thick. I would suggest Bell Buttress, Cob Rock and Castle. For clipping bolts, I would suggest Dream Canyon and Animal World, though both have trad routes, too. To be honest with you, BC just isn't that great. There are good climbs to be sure, but they are dispersed. I would recommend going to Eldo, S. Platte and Vedauwoo before going to BC if you are in the Denver/Boulder area. They're more stacked, at least a little less packed and the climbing is generally better.
democracy is three wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for lunch
tomdarch
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Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 9:22 pm

Post by tomdarch »

I've liked the Rossiter guides - along with some stuff about the history of climbing in the area. I wasn't doing anything cutting edge (OK, I was doing really easy stuff) but it is still cool to think back to the old, old, old schoolers who put a lot of that stuff up.

Two things, though:
1) It can be hard to find the start of some of the routes. The down side of small granite blobs on the side of a valley is that it isn't like hiking along the base of a limestone or sandstone cliff line. You first have to find your way to the base of the formation (which sometimes involves looping around the top of the formation and descending) and then finding the start on the bottom/side of the blob. And the damn things look a lot different up close than from the road.
2) Afternoon showers/storms. It's absolutely true about the 2:00pm showers. They won't always hit where you are, but they generally involve some lightning, so it's better to be the hell off of things before they roll in. (Plus, you may not have noticed, but wet granite can be slippery...)

Unless you've already done it, or you are a grade snob, do the main route on the Third Flatiron. Easy AND fantastic!

(Peyote!?! Yikes! I sure am glad that I didn't start using real drugs until the early 90's - by which time we learned to stick with shrooms and skip the whole barfing-while-tripping thing! (Yuck!) At the time we thought that we were getting smarter and smarter each generation, but given the resurgence of smack in the 'burbs, that sure blows the 'progress' theory out of the water!)
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