New climbing area in the Red

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:54 pm

dhoyne wrote:I believe that Rick and Liz are in Red Rocks this week.

they are, so no one should be planning to climb there unless they have made previous arrangments. Since the only thing they are asking of the climbing community is to sign a waiver and ask before bolting, I think we should all work together to make sure everyone is on their best behavior.

Kneebar, if you had permission in advance, please forgive me for implying otherwise.

Post by **t bone** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 10:13 pm

Sandy you are right. I am overseeing the route development for Rick. If you have permission to climb and want to place bolts you can contact me.There are several routes up already. I will be there early sat morning.Send me a PM if you need any info.

Post by **dhoyne** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 10:23 pm

I'll probably see you Saturday Tim... I'm going down to the Gorge with Jared and Rob.

Post by **weber** » Tue Apr 06, 2004 5:41 am

Muir Valley Update:

Liz and I just returned from a memorable trip to Red Rocks and are eager to get back to the Valley to see some of the new routes.

To all of you who have expressed interest in climbing here or just taking a look around, please contact us by email or at the phone numbers posted in this thread prior to coming. We need to know who you are, and you need to know specific information on how to access the climbs. Later we hope to have topos and info on climbs posted on www.muirvalley.com. As you all know, access is free and no responsible climber will be turned away. So, just give us a buzz before coming.

We are fortunate to have Tim Powers (t bone) overseeing route development. The few routes set so far are first rate and some promise to be classics. It is imperative that anyone wishing to set a route FIRST contact Tim by email or private messaging on this website.

Jared Hancock and Karla Carandang have done a spectacular job in photographing and documenting climbs as they are established in the Valley. Some are finished, and some are projects. Routes have been set by Tim, Jared, Karla, JJ, Barry and a few others in an orderly manner, and we would like to keep it this way -- to every climber's benefit.

To avoid a chaotic "Oklahoma Land Rush" of route setters descending on the rock, we must keep development orderly. Tim is very experienced in route setting and is more than happy to listen to your suggestions for new routes. Please do not set routes without his approval, and after receiving approval, please follow the bolting standards set up by the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition.

The parking lot has been graded and graveled and is nearly complete. Work will start soon on proper trail to the valley floor. Hopefully, by end of May, access to established climbing areas in the Valley will be completed.

We hope to have release forms available soon and will ask all visitors to sign one.

Thank you all for your patience.

Rick and Liz Weber

Post by **hoss** » Mon Apr 12, 2004 4:39 pm

I've been wanting to check out Muirvalley, but I'm unsure of what type of climbing it has to offer. I only climb sport and boulder and can't typically lead anything over 5.11.C. Does anyone know where I can obtain a list of what climbs this crag has to offer?

Post by **squeezindlemmon** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 4:16 pm

The muir valley has all types of climbs to offer - sport, trad, bouldering (actually a maybe on this one), and another maybe on ice climbing if ever one of the many beautiful waterfalls freeze over.

5.11c is a great rating to be climbing at... personally I think 5.10s are the most fun. The good thing about the Valley is that the route grades here range from 5.0 to possibly 5.13 and higher. A couple of project routes are actually suspected to be in that higher range.

As for the question, "Does anyone know where I can obtain a list of what climbs this crag has to offer?", a guide is in the works and we are doing everything we can to document (pictures, maps, topos, etc) all the climbs being established.

If you can get permission from Rick and Liz to climb, we would be more than happy to show you the established routes when we are down there. PM me. It would probably be best to wait another couple of weeks if you really want to climb more than just a couple of routes.

Post by **dhoyne** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 4:41 pm

Jared has the list of all established climbs and their ratings as well as a hand drawn map of the crags and hundreds of photos. TBone is in charge of development of new routes. These two people are probably the 'go to' people (if Rick and Liz Weber don't know) for route information.

Post by **dhoyne** » Tue Apr 13, 2004 5:17 pm

Might as well post this here also:

here's some shots from a few weeks ago:
http://community.webshots.com/album/133925009wAZFfN

Post by **weber** » Wed Apr 14, 2004 12:03 pm

Muir Valley update 4/14/04:
Route setting by Tim Powers (t bone), Jared Hancock and others is proceeding smoothly. This weekend, they plan to bolt several moderate routes that have already been designated as projects. Projects in Muir wil be identified by red ribbons. Please avoid these lines and respect the route setters' rights to complete their projects. Also, remember that gear left on projects is NOT booty. Please leave it in place and undisturbed.

If you would like to set up a route in Muir Valley, contact Tim and Jared who can direct you to virgin rock. Tim is the person authorized to approve routes and bolting hardware in the Valley, and Jared and Karla are the official documenters of new routes. To receive credit for your work, you should first contact these people. Please send t bone a private message via this website.

Liz and I enjoy meeting new friends who have been visiting the Valley. We do ask that you contact us first before coming so that we can keep a guest book of climbers and also so that we can provide you with directions to the new routes. No responsible climber has been nor will be turned away.

Rick Weber weber@accenttech.com 317-244-7633 (office)

"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all." Hellen Keller

Post by **weber** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 12:38 pm

Muir Valley Update 4/20/04:

The On-Line release form function is working on our website: www.muirvalley.com

Anyone wishing to climb here is asked to take a few seconds to register on line. No release is required for anyone who visits but doesn't climb.

Also, for those who may come down and have not yet registered on line, there is a metal box with temporary release forms at the kiosk at the parking lot. These will cover you for three days until you get a chance to register on line.

No admission fee, of course. Write us for info on the latest sport and trad routes that have been put up. Please email t bone FIRST if you wish to put up a route.

Liz and Rick Weber