Guidelines on Belaying

Post by **Meadows** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:08 pm

rhino, What about dropping your climber? It just seems in line with what you're saying.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:38 pm

Rhino, you forgot one:

When belaying someone on top-rope, leave out a very generous helping of slack. Enough so that even followers can learn about decking if they have the nerve to fall.

Oh, and one more:

When using a gri-gri, "what break hand?"

Post by **merrick** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 11:12 pm

i think wes has said it before but I will say it again, "Be Aware." Just like spotting for boudlering think about all the factors affecting the potential fall and be ready to react in an appropriate manner.

knowing all the different techniques and stratagies doesn't mean shit if you are not paying attention.

Post by **Spragwa** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 3:16 am

I'm a newbie and rhunt climbed with me. Acacongua face it, you just suck ass.

Post by **enduro** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 3:44 am

Post by **rhunt** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 5:45 am

Spragwa is in because she helped me out when I was down on my luck and has proven herself way above newbie status....I even let that nasty thing she keeps under her bed tag along.

Acacongua, there is a way I'll let you climb with me but it will involve "special" favors.

Post by **Rain Man** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 1:56 pm

SikMonkey and I practice catching him on falls. Understanding how fast a partner moves and how frequently they make big, rapid movements is important to how much slack is out (just below, at or just above the bolt, too). I outweigh Sik by roughly 75 lbs, so while I always receive a soft catch, if I don't time the jump right and have just the right amount of slack out, he gets roughed up a bit (and if you like climbing with someone, you don't want to do that, or they won't like climbing with you). Initially, my natural inclination was to want to arrest Sik's fall as quickly as possible and with the weight difference between us, that was easy to accomplish. A little vocalization pointed out the error in my technique, so we started to work on it.

Since Sik is the only person I really climb with, I guess it's easier to learn his style and preferences, but that doesn't diminish the need to do the same with any person one belays.

I guess it comes down to the fact that the climber is the most important thing in your world while belaying him/her and while on the other end of the rope, his/her safety and comfort is paramount.

Post by **acacongua** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:31 pm

Spragwa wrote:I'm a constipated and rhunt climbed with me. Acacongua face it, you just suck ass.

Bitch, who asked you?

Post by **acacongua** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 2:35 pm

rhunt wrote: Acacongua, there is a way I'll let you climb with me but it will involve "special" favors.

Like what? Giving you advice on what hot pink shorts look good on you? Girlie man.

Post by **Rain Man** » Fri Apr 02, 2004 4:36 pm

In sifting through all the BS not related to your original post, I completely forgot to provide my sympathies for your break. Hopefully you'll be on your feet sooner, rather than later and won't miss the entire Spring.